- 



IN-DOOR GARDENING 



FOK 

EVERY WEEK IN THE YEAR: 

SHOWING 

THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT TOE ALL PLANTS 

CULTIVATED IN THE 

GEEENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, STOYE, PIT, ORCHID, 
AND EORCING--HOUSE. 




LONDON: 
COTTAGE GAEDEISTEE OFFICE, 

162, FLEET STREET. 
1860. 



10ND0N 
PRINTED BY JOSEPH CLAYTON, 
17, BOT7VERIE STREET, 



IN-DOOR GARDENING FOR 
THE MANY. 



JANUARY. 

FIEST WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Cinerarias. — The plants intended for large specimens 
must receive their final shift, and be allowed sufficient 
space to expand their foliage without interfering with or 
injuring each other. The side-shoots to be tied out. 

Epacrises. — As some of them will be preparing to 
burst into flower, a little arrangement may be necessary 
in tying them out to display their spikes of bloom more 
advantageously. 

Euchsias. — If wanted early, the plants that were first 
put to rest should be selected, and be fresh potted, cut- 
ting back the roots, beginning with a small-sized pot ; to 
be shifted into larger when the roots have extended to 
the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice moist tem- 
perature of 50° by day and 40° by night. 

Heaths. — To be looked over, and the dead and decay- 
ing leaves removed. The most forward in bud — such as 
the Vestitas, Vernix, Vasciflora, Aristata, JBeaumontia, 
and many others, to be tied out, and arranged for the 
season. 

Pelargoniums. — When large specimens are wanted, 



8 



JANUARY — FIRST WEEK. 



tie out the branches at equal distances, and down as near 
to the rim of the pot as possible. Air to be given at all 
favourable opportunities. Wate- to be given but spar- 
ingly, and not overhead. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too 
high : if kept at 50° in severe weather no ill consequences 
will result. The atmosphere to be kept rather moist, 
especially if the weather is bright; and all plants in- 
dicating an appearance of starting into bloom to be re- 
moved to the warmest part of the house. 

Clerodendrons. — To be shaken out of their pots ; 
their roots reduced and repotted into small pots in a light 
sandy loamy compost. Sow seeds, and also of any hard- 
wooded stove plants. 

Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, 
merely sufficient to prevent the plants from shrivelling ; 
and to do this effectually it is necessary to look over 
them every day. The air of the house to be kept moist 
by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &c, daily. If 
any plant is found not to have ripened off its bulbs it 
should be placed in the warmest part of the house, 
and the ripening process encouraged. The Brassias, 
Cyanoches, Coelogynes, Miltonias, and other such plants, 
when they are beginning to grow, to be repotted. The 
compost to consist of turfy peat mixed with a portion of 
charcoal or broken potsherds, and the pots to be at least 
half full of very open drainage. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Cherries. — Very gentle excitement to be given by fire 
or artificial heat, with kindly humidity, and abundance 
of air. 

Figs. — Although they will bear a higher degree of 
temperature without injury than either Cherries or 
Peaches, it is advisable to begin cautiously, as it fre- 
quently happens that the more haste with fire the less- 
speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of 
sun and light must be embraced for making sure progress 
with them. 

Peaches. — Where the trees are coming into bloom it 



JANUARY — FIRST AND SECOND WEEK. 



9 



is necessary to be cautious in the application of humidity, 
and when they have expanded their flowers to withhold 
it altogether for a time. Fire or other artificial heat to 
be applied moderately — that is, from 45° by night to 55° 
by day, particularly when dark and gloomy weather pre- 
vails. The houses now commencing to force to be kept 
moderately moist, and in a sweet healthy state, syringing 
the trees pretty freely once or twice a-day with tepid 
water. Shut up early on sunny days, and sprinkle the 
paths, floors, flues, or pipes frequently. 

Vines. — When they have all broken, the superfluous 
buds must be rubbed off, and the young shoots stopped 
as soon as they are long enough to admit the points of 
the shoots at one bud above the bunch being broken out. 
In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the practice 
of producing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity 
by means of dung and leaves, or other such fermenting 
materials. If they are to be broken principally by fire 
heat, either by flues or hot-water pipes, copious syring- 
ings must be resorted to with tepid water once or twice 
a-day. Fire heat to be applied principally by day, with 
air at the same time, and very moderately at night. 



SECOND WEEK 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The plants will now require particular attention and 
a nice discrimination in the application of water : it may 
be comprehended by all persons interested in gardening 
operations, that when the soil on the surface of the pot 
looks damp it will not require water until it gets 
thoroughly dry at this season, and then it is to be given 
before the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when 
the plant droops and the soil on the surface appears 
damp, the cause is then to be discovered by turning the 
ball out of the pot, when it will be seen whether the 
whole or only a portion of the soil is wet ; as it some- 
times happens, when fresh potted with light soil, it 
shrinks from the sides of the pot when dry, and when 



10 



JANXTAEY — SECOND WEEK. 



water is given it runs down and moistens the outside, 
without penetrating the ball. The evil is corrected by- 
holding it for a short space of time in a tub of water of 
the same temperature as the house. If the soil of any 
plant is sodden with water it should be turned out of the 
pot, and the drainage examined, and no water to be given 
until it becomes thoroughly dry. 

Veebenas. — They require to be kept tolerably dry, as 
they are more susceptible of injury from damp than from 
cold ; a top shelf near the glass in the greenhouse is a 
very suitable place for them. If mildew appears, to be 
dusted with flowers of sulphur. 

STOVE AND OECHID-HOUSE. 

Although all plants now at rest should be kept com- 
paratively dry, they will require to be looked over daily 
to see that they do not suffer for want of water. The 
temperature not to exceed 60° by fire heat, and a fall 
of 10° may be allowed at night in very cold weather. 
Many of the stove plants— 3uch as Aphelandras, Justicias, 
Poinsettias, &c. — may now be cut down altogether, and 
kept dry for a few weeks, which will cause them to make 
an early growth, and to come into flower a few weeks 
sooner next winter. 

Gtesnekas. — Select a few roots of them and a few oi 
the Gloxinias to start into growth to produce a succession 
of flowers. 

FOBCING-HOTTSES. 

Aspaeagus. — If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a 
liberal supply of water, so that it may descend to the 
roots, as unproductiveness is sometimes caused by the 
soil at the roots being very dry when the top is kept 
moist by gentle waterings. 

Beans (Dwarf Kidney), — Sow every three weeks, if a 
constant supply is wanted. Keep the early crops well 
supplied with water, and give them frequent sprinklings 
overhead, to prevent the attacks of red spider. 

Musheooms. — An abundance of water to be thrown 
about the floors. If the beds are dry, to be syringed 
with lukewarm water, applying it like dew at intervals 
for a few hours. Temperature from 50° to 60°, with air 
occasionally in favourable weather. 



JANUARY — SECOND WEEK. 



ii 



Peaches. — Continue previous directions. The trees 
in bloom to be artificially impregnated, and the fore- 
right shoots to be rubbed off a few at a time before they 
become too large. Currents of air to be carefully avoided, 
especially when the trees are in bloom, as they have been 
sometimes observed to sustain injury from the two end 
doors being left open for a short time. Air to be given 
at the top daily in favourable weather. 

Pines. — As the days lengthen and the light increases 
the plants that are swelling their fruit should be sup- 
plied with a gradual increase of heat (from 65° at night 
to 75° or 80° in the middle of the day in clear weather), 
water, and atmospheric moisture ; while others that are 
in bloom and starting into fruit require more air or more 
moderate temperature, care in watering and less atmo- 
spheric humidity. Some of the strongest succession 
plants that are grown in pots to receive their final shift, 
that they may make their growth for fruiting in May or 
June. In old-fashioned pits or houses, where the flues 
run near the tan-bed, the plants should be closely exa- 
mined, as they are apt to be injured by fire heat in such 
a situation. 

Steawbesries. — A few dozens more pots may be 
placed in a frame where there is a gentle heat and an 
atmosphere more congenial to their healthy growth than 
in a house. 

Vines.— When they have made shoots two or three 
inches long, the night temperature to range from 60° to 
85°, with an increase of from 5° to 10° during the day. 

PITS AND ESAMES. 

Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible 
by fully exposing them in mild weather, but do not give 
any more water than is absolutely necessary. Remove 
all decayed and decaying leaves, and keep the atmosphere 
in as healthy a state as possible. 

Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, 
Eadishes and Early Horn Carrots, Cauliflower and 
TValclieren Broccoli, Lettuce, and various other things, 
which will be found useful where the late severe weather, 
or other cause, may have diminished the autumn sow- 
ings. 



12 



JANUARY — THIRD WEEK. 



THIRD WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnani 
air is always unfavourable, especially to the plants bloom- 
ing in the conservatory. Water sparingly, and damp 
the house as moderately as possible, as water settling on 
the flowers will soon destroy them. When the plants, 
bulbs, or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their 
blossoms, let them be removed to the conservatory, where 
they can be preserved much longer in perfection. The 
plants to be looked over every morning, and every dead 
or decaying leaf and flower to be removed. 

Heaths. — Fire heat should only be given when mats 
or other such coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, 
as nothing so much injures the constitution of the Cape 
Heaths as a close, damp atmosphere. Air should be 
allowed to circulate freely amongst them at all oppor- 
tunities. 

Pelargoniums. —The plants intended for specimens 
should be finally shifted. Air to be admitted at all 
favourable opportunities, and a slight increase of tempe- 
rature given. To be kept near the glass, and free from 
green fly. If they have made no winter growth they 
will now be the better prepared to progress in a robust, 
healthy state. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Amaryllis. — Attend to the shifting^of them as soon 
as they show signs of growth. Let them be placed in 
the stove, and give a little water, increasing it gradually 
as the leaves unfold. 

Orchids. — If other departments of gardening are 
likely to occupy more time than can be very well spared 
as spring operations accumulate very fast, it is advisable 
to proceed with the potting of Orchids from this time 
forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of 
growth. Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh 
sphagnum to be soaked in boiling water, to destroy in- 
sects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance of crocks, 



JANUARY— THIRD WEEK. 



13 



are the materials to be used. Any plants that had be- 
come very dry should be immersed in tepid water for an 
hour the day previous to shifting. The climate of the 
countries and the localities from whence the species come 
are the best guides to their successful cultivation ; as the 
treatment required for Oncidium Carthaginense would 
kill O. bifolium, and Cattleya Forbesii will thrive where 
C. Skinneri will die, and in like manner with many others. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Capsicum. — Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or 
pots, to be placed in heat. When the seedlings are an inch 
or two high pot them singly into small pots, and replace 
them in heat ; to be afterwards shifted when necessary 
until the end of May, when they may be planted out on 
a south border. 

Cherries. — Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and 
a very moderate temperature, are the requisites for them. 
If the buds are beginning to swell, 45° will be enough to 
maintain by fire heat, lowering the temperature down 
to 40° at night, with a moist atmosphere. 

Cucumbers. — The plants in bearing to get a top dress- 
ing of fresh, rich soil. Keep a sharp look out for the 
destruction of insects. When the plants in the seed-bed 
have made one rough leaf pinch off the leading shoot 
above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots 
from the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck 
in the seed-bed will come into bearing quicker than 
seedling plants. 

Peaches. — If the weather is very dull and unfavour- 
able for giving air where the trees are in bloom, it is 
advisable to shake the trellis towards noon for dispersing 
the pollen. 

Pines. — Proceed with the routine as advised in last 
Calendar. 

Strawberries.— Keep them close to the glass, and 
remember that they are impatient of heat: let 45° be 
about the maximum, with a very free circulation of air. 
If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, let the bottom 
heat be about 70° maximum, with an atmospheric warmth 
of 55° to 60°. In such a situation they will want scarcely 



JANUARY — THIRD AND FOURTH WEEK. 



any water until tliey begin to throw up tlieir blossom- 
spikes. 

Tomatoes. — Sow seed of tlie large. To be treated as 
advised for Capsicums. 

Vines. — To be looked over carefully, and as soon as 
tliey are sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo 
fruit all useless shoots to be removed — that is, all that do 
not show fruit, ami are not required for wood next season. 
It may also be necessary to take off some of the shoots 
that show fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots 
grow from one joint one of them should be removed. 



FOURTH WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE and conservatory. 

The compost intended for the plants in these houses 
should be prepared and sweetened by several turnings ; 
and a sufficient supply for immediate use should be stored 
in an open shed. 

Calceolarias (Herbaceous). — To be potted into larger 
pots as they require them; compost equal parts of turfy 
loam, peat, and leaf mould, with a sprinkling of silver 
sand. To be kept in a moderately -moist atmospheric 
temperature of from 45° at night to 55° in the day. To 
be slightly syringed with tepid water on sunny days, and 
to be kept free from insects. 

Fuchsias. — After the old plants are shaken out of their 
pots, and their roots reduced and fresh potted in a com- 
post of turfy loam and peat, with a little leaf mould and 
some sand added, to be introduced to a temperature 
of 60°. When some of the young shoots -are an inch 
long they may be taken off, and inserted in pans of sand 
kept damp, where they will soon take root, and will 
require to be pushed on in heat to make fine large speci- 
mens for the conservatory or flower garden. 

New Holland Plants. — Water them with care and 
moderation. Air to be given freely night and day in 
mild weather. Fire heat to be applied only, and then 



JANUARY — FOURTH WEEK. 



15 



merely sufficiently, to exclude frost. The strong- shoots of 
the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as 
the best foundation for future good specimens. 

Sow seeds of Thunbergias, Phlox Drummondi, Migno- 
nette, Ten-tveek and other Stocks, in pots, to be placed 
upon a slight hotbed. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Achimenes. — Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be 
potted singly as they appear, in equal portions of leaf 
mould and sandy loam ; to be started into growth in a 
moderate bottom heat. 

GtLoxinias. — Select a few varieties. To be shaken 
out, and fresh potted in equal parts of turfy loam and 
heath soil and a little sand. To be excited in bottom 
heat. 

G-esnera zebrina.— Those which were first in flower 
should be dried off for early work next season. This is 
to be done by withholding water gradually, and by keep- 
ing their foliage still exposed to the light. 

Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and 
other such tender annuals in heat, to grow them in good 
time into fine specimens for the adornment of the con- 
servatory in summer. 

FpRCTNG-HOUSES. 

Cucumbers. — The plants preparing for ridging out early 
in February will require attention in airing, and watering 
with tepid water occasionally when dry, and to be kept 
close to the glass to produce sturdy growth. The plants 
on dung-beds require great attention at this season. To 
be kept within eight or nine inches of the glass ; to be 
stopped regularly ; and to maintain a heat of not less 
than 70° by day ; to be able to give air to dry the plants. 
The fermenting materials to be always prepared ready 
to receive the linings when the heat declines. For those 
who are fortunate enough to be provided with pits heated 
by hot-water pipes, such constant labour and attention 
will not be necessary. 

Melons. — To be treated as advised for Cucumbers. 

Peaches. — When the blossoms are beginning to ex- 
pand, discontinue syringing, but sprinkle the pathways, 



16 JANUABY — FOITETH WEEK. 

to produce- a moist, but not too damp, and consequently 
a healthy, state of the atmosphere. Fresh air is in- 
dispensable and should be admitted at every favourable 
opportunity ; and if the cold external air could be made 
to pass over the flues, or hot-water pipes, so as to get 
warmed before coming in contact with the blossoms, a 
gentle circulation would be constantly kept up until the 
fruit is fairly set. 

Pines. — Great care is necessary when syringing, more 
especially those that are about throwing up their flower- 
stems, that no more water may lodge in the hearts of the 
plants than will evaporate during the day. But if, from 
any cause, a portion remain until evening, it should be 
drawn away by means of a syringe having a long and 
narrow tube at the end of it, or by a piece of sponge tied 
to the point of a small stick. 

Stbawbeeeies. — When these are throwing up their 
blossom-spikes a little liquid manure may be given, but 
it should be very weak, and perfectly clear. A succession 
of plants to be introduced where there is a gentle heat. 
The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface of the 
soil to be stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves 
near the glass. 

Vines. — Continue the treatment as advised last week. 

Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, 
Sea-kale, and Rhubarb. 

PITS AND FBAMES. 

Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, 
Salvias, and Verbenas may now be struck in a gentle 
bottom heat, and pushed forward to make good sized 
plants for bedding out when all danger from frost is 
over. 



1®f 



FEBRUARY — FIRST WEEK. 



1? 



FEBRUARY. 
FIRST WEEK. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Proceed with, the potting of the young plants in the 
greenhouse, and the small specimens of all kinds, using 
the soil tolerably rough, with a liberal sprinkling of sand, 
and good drainage. To be kept rather close until they 
make fresh roots. 

Azaleas (Indian). — Introduce a few into heat; to be 
fresh potted before starting them, giving a rather liberal 
shift into good peat and sand, with thorough drainage. 
A moist-growing temperature between 60° and 70° to be 
maintained, with plenty of air in favourable weather. Sow 
seed, as likewise Bhododendron, in a gentle bottom heat. 

Kalosanthes. — To be started into growth, potting 
them in a compost of half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy 
peat, and one-fourth decomposed leaf mould, with plenty 
of coarse gritty sand, and an admixture of charcoal and 
pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to be 
given, and to be kept in a temperature of from 45° to 50°. 

New Holland Plants. —Select young plants of the 
Boronias and other such families, and give them a liberal 
shift ; they delight in good fibrous heath soil, with a good 
portion of sharp sand, and plenty of drainage, it is 
advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off the 
tops of the young shoots during their growth, to form 
handsome specimens. 

Orange Trees. — Be vigilant that scale and all insects 
are removed from them and from Neriums, and other 
such plants before they begin to grow, as young wood 
and foliage are more difficult to clean without injury. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Stove plants in general will now require an increase 



in the amount of atmospheric moisture, and a slight 
advance in heat ; such an advance to be made, more 
especially on bright afternoons, when solar heat can be 
enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial 
atmosphere. 

Crinums. — Pot them if they require it, but without 
disturbing the ball of earth about their roots ; to be 
favoured with an increase of heat to start them afresh, 
and during their active growth to be liberally supplied 
with water. 

Gloriosa supeeba. — Shake out the roots, and repot in 
good fibrous loam, with a sprinkling of sand, and place 
them in bottom heat. JSTo water to be applied to the 
tubers until they have commenced their growth. 

FORCING-PIT. 

Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, 
Eoses, Sweet Brier, and the many other plants previously 
recommended as suitable and useful for that purpose. 
A temperature of from 65° to 70° to be maintained, with 
plenty of moisture in clear weather. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Figs. — Trees in pots to have their shoots stopped 
when they have made three or four joints, and to be 
supplied occasionally with liquid manure. 

Melons. — The fruiting-beds to be prepared and in 
readiness for the reception of the young plants as soon as 
they have nearly filled their pots with roots. 

Peaches. — If a house were started, as advised at the 
beginning of the year, a second should now be set to 
work. Syringe the trees several times a-day in clear 
weather, and once or twice in all weathers until the 
flowers begin to expand. Attention to be given to the 
early house, when the fruit is set, to thin it partially, 
imt to leave one-third more on the trees than will be 
required to ripen off. If Peaches are intended to be 
grown in pots for next season, the maiden plants should 
now be procured, and potted in nine or ten : nch pots . 
The Royal George Peach and Violette Hative Nectarine 
«>re the most eligible for that purpose. 



FEBETTARY — FIRST AND SECOND WEEK. 19 

Pines. — If any indications of the presence of worms 
appear on the surface of the pots a watering with clear lime 
water will remove them. The same steady temperature 
to be kept up in the fruiting-house or pit as lately advised. 
Although it is sometimes recommended we would not 
advise to withhold water at the roots for the purpose 
of starting them into fruit ; for if, by proper manage- 
ment, they are good, healthy plants, they will have formed 
their fructiferous parts before this time, and therefore 
should not be allowed to get dry, but be watered when 
they require it with tepid water. 

Vines. — The successional houses to be treated nearly 
in all respects the same as the early houses ; the tempe- 
rature may now be increased in accordance with the 
increase of light rather more rapidly at an early stage of 
their growth than that of the house in which forcing was 
commenced in December. When Vines for the early 
crops are grown in pots, put the eyes in 60-sized pots, 
and plunge them in a dung-frame or pit, with a bottom 
heat between 70° and 80°; The Hamburghs, Blade 
Prince, Muscadine, and Sweetwater are the kinds to be 
preferred for that purpose. 



SECOND WEEK. 

geeenhouse and conservatory. 

As plants naturally, after their season of rest during 
the winter, now begin to grow, it is advisable to shift the 
young stock, and all others that require it, into fresh 
soil, by which they will be the better enabled to progress 
to a healthy -blooming state without check or hindrance. 
Although from this time to the middle of March is to be 
considered the most favourable season for a general shift, 
nevertheless it may be necessary to shift some plants 
more than once or twice during their season of growth. 

Climbers. — To be attended to, removing weak and 
dead wood, and cutting back to three or four eyes where 
an increase of young shoots is desirable. To be fre- 



20 



FEBRUARY— SECOND WEEK. 



quently syringed, to keep down red spider, as they are 
more liable than other plants to be infested by them. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

The advice given for the shifting of the general stock 
of greenhouse plants will also be applicable to the fresh 
potting of the stove plants. 

Begonias. — Being of free growth they delight in fresh 
soil, consisting of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf 
mould. As a general rule they are repotted in February 
and August ; but exceptions are sometimes made, and a 
shift is given whenever the roots become cramped or 
matted in the pot. The knife to be used cautiously, 
unless with the tall-growing sorts. 

Gloxinias. — To be now started, if not done as advised 
a fortnight ago. When planted press the roots gently 
on the surface of the soil, and give them no water for 
some time ; as the moisture in the soil will be sufficient 
at first until they begin to grow, when a little may be 
given, and the supply to be gradually increased as they 
advance in growth. When potted to be removed to a 
frame or pit where the temperature is about 60°. 

Luculia gratissima. — To be potted in a compost con- 
sisting of half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one- 
fourth leaf mould, with good drainage. 

Musa Cavendishii. — To be repotted in a compost 
of turfy loam, vegetable soil, or well-rotted manure, and 
a small portion of sand, with plenty of drainage. To be 
plunged in a brisk heat in a bark-bed, and to keep the 
roots moist. 

Many of the Orchids may now be potted, and then 
placed in the warmest part of the house. The plants that 
are not shifted to be supplied with a little fresh material, 
taking care that the embryo buds are not covered. Look 
over the fastenings of all that are on blocks, or in baskets, 
and renew the wires where necessary. The temperature 
to be about 65° by day, allowing it to range to 70° or 
75° by sun-heat. 

forcing-houses. 
Cherries. — Keep up the temperature from 50° to 55 c 
while the trees are in bloom, with as little variation as 
possible. The trees not in flower to be frequently syringed. 



FEBRUARY — SECOND. WEEK. 

Cucumbers. — The greatest attention should be paid to 
the state of the bed for the first fortnight after the plants 
are turned out ; the heat-stick (a stick stuck into the 
bed) should be examined, being, as it is, a much better 
criterion to judge by than a thermometer, which is gene- 
rally used to indicate the heat of the atmosphere in the 
frame ; cover up according to the heat of the bed. If it 
will allow it, a small portion of air should be left on 
every night, which may be given in the evening after the 
frame has been closed for two or three hours. Keep 
up the heat by stirring, renewing, or topping-up the 
linings ; and attend to the stopping of the plants, and the 
earthing-up of the hills, as the roots make their appear- 
ance on the surface. 

Melons. — Pot off the plants when the seed-leaves are 
fully expanded. 

Peaches. — When the trees have set their fruit, give 
the roots, if growing inside the house, a good watering 
with liquid manure, mixed with soft hot water, so as to 
be of the temperature of the house, or a little above it. 
The syringe to be used several times a-day in clear, mild 
weather as soon as the fruit is set. 

Pines. — Pot the succession plants. If the pots are 
full of strong, healthy roots, pick out the crocks care- 
fully without injuring them, leaving the ball entire, and 
giving them a good shift. But if unfortunately many of 
the roots are dead, shake the ball entirely away, and cut 
out all that are dead, preserving such as are alive and 
healthy, and potting them in fresh soil. 

Strawberries. — Keep up a succession by placing a 
few dozen pots in a gentle heat once every fortnight or 
three weeks. 

Vines. — All laterals to be stopped in due time, and 
all useless buds and branches to be removed ; the leading 
shoots to be tied in regularly, and the bunches to be 
thinned. No more bunches to be left on each Vine than 
it is likely to bring to perfect maturity. About one 
dozen bunches are a good average crop for each rod. The 
temperature to range from 55° to 60° at night, with an 
increase of 5° to 10° during the day, and even higher 
during sunshine. 



22 



FEBEUABY — TEIBD WEEK. 



T HIED WEEK. 

GEEENHOUSE AND CONSEEVATOEY. 

The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to 
be arranged, cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit 
of a plant, or other considerations, should render it de- 
sirable to prolong the season of blooming, the pruning 
may be postponed for a week or two longer. Continue 
to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all 
other such plants when they fill their pots with roots. 
To be then kept close for some days until fresh root- 
action begins. Green fly to be kept down. 

Veebenas. — Put them in heat, to get cuttings ; as also 
Heliotropes, and all other such plants, of which there is 
a scarcity, for bedding-out purposes. 

STOVE AND 0BCHID-H0T7SE. 

Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as v 
the days lengthen. Start old and young plants of Ciero- 
dendrons, Dipladenias, and Stephanotis,in a sweet bottom 
heat. Rondeletias to be cut in, and started in the same 
manner. 

Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a 
high temperature causes a premature and unhealthy 
growth it is advisable to keep up a healthy atmosphere 
of from 55° to 65°, with an increase of a few degrees in 
sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for a very 
short time, should be admitted ; but be careful to avoid 
draughts at this early period of the year. All growing 
plants to be watered at the roots only, being careful not 
to allow any water to lodge in the axils of the leaves 
to cause decay. To preserve the roots of some Orchids 
in a healthy state it is necessary to grow them on blocks 
of wood ; the blocks to be made proportionate to the 
specimens they are intended to bear ; and the heel of the 
plant to be placed close to the end of the log, to give as 
much space as possible for the plant to grow upon. The 
following thrive well on blocks without moss : — Barlceria 
spectabilis, Leptotes bicolor, Phalcenopsis amabilis, and 
Sophronitis cernua, the Brassavolas, the Cattleyas, nearly 
all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Lsslias, and nearly 



FEBRUARY— THIRD WEEK. 



23 



all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the 
Schombergias. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Cucumbers. — Attend to the thinning and stopping, 
and impregnate the fruit blossom when open. 

Figs. — Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden 
changes of air are excluded from the trees. The roots 
to be well supplied with water, and the trees to be occa- 
sionally syringed overhead. 

Peaches. — When set, thin the fruit and shoots as 
required ; to be done gradually, a little at one time, to 
prevent any sudden and injurious change in the system 
of the tree. A liberal supply of moisture to be kept up, 
with a temperature ranging from 55° to 65° and 70 3 by 
sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in 
bloom ; the bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak ; 
and if shy setters, to be artificially impregnated, using 
a camel-hair pencil for that purpose. 

Pines. — Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose 
no time in raising the pots nearer to the surface if an 
approach to a burning temperature is apprehended. To 
be thoroughly watered when they require it, and to be 
syringed overhead in the morning and evening of every 
clear day unless the plants are in bloom, or ripening 
their fruit. Any crowns, suckers, or small plants 
not well established will do well in a pit or frame 
on a bed of leaves, or well sweetened dung, where 
they will make a rapid and vigorous growth during the 
summer. 

Vines. — Attend to last week's instructions as to stop- 
ping all laterals, &c, and thinning the bunches in good 
time ; and tie up all the principal shoulders with soft 
strands of matting. Never allow the head or hand to 
touch the berries. Give them plenty of air-moisture 
during their swelling season ; to be discontinued when they 
begin to colour. Shy-setting sorts — such as the Black 
Damascus, Cannon Sail Muscat, &c. — will set better by 
thinning the blossom-buds before expansion, by which 
a more regular and compact bunch will be produced. 
Late Vines should be pruned and dressed ; and if not 
frosty the lights to be removed, which will retard their 
breaking, and benefit the tress. 



24 



FEBRUARY— FOURTH WEEK. 



FOUETH WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

During- continued frosty weather fires must be kept 
up in these houses, and then particular attention must 
be given to the New Holland plants, Heaths, and 
such like, which are impatient of heat, that they do 
not suffer from want of water. Be sure that the' ball 
is thoroughly moistened at least once a-week. 

PITS AND FRAMES. 

Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Cobceas, Lophosper- 
mums, Maurandyas, Eodochitons, and Tropaeolums, de- 
serve attention at this time, increasing them by cuttings 
or by seeds. Some annuals are also worthy of attention, 
such as Brachy comas, Phloxes, Portulaccas, Schizanthuses, 
with others which may all be forwarded in heat. Who- 
ever has not yet attended to the propagation of plants 
for bedding out, should now begin, without further delay, 
to put in cuttings of Euchsias, Verbenas, Heliotropes, 
Petunias, Salvias, Scarlet Geraniums, &c, to have good 
plants in May and June. All straggling and weak shoots 
to be topped back to form robust, bushy plants. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Some of the stove plants that have done blooming 
should be cut back, such as the JSrantliemum pulchellum, 
Euphorbia j acquinicpjlor a, Geissomeria longiflora, Gesnera 
lateritia, Justicias, Linum trigynum, Poinsettia pul~ 
cherrima, and others. A bottom heat will be necessary 
when they are repotted, which may be done in about 
three weeks or a month. Such of the most forward plants, 
as they require shifting, to be attended to. The condition 
or fitness for this must, in a great measure, be determined 
by the progress the shoots and roots have made. 

FORCING-PIT. 

Continue to introduce plants of Azaleas, Hyacinths, 
Heliotropes, Hydrangeas, Kalmias, Sedums, Lilac3, Nar- 
cissus, Pelargoniums, Pinks, Ehododendrons, and Eoses 



FEBRUARY — FOURTH WEEK. 



25 



in varieties. A batch of last year's young Fuchsias, 
Ery thrinas, and Salvia patens, to be shaken out, repotted, 
and placed in bottom heat. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, 
G-lobe Amaranths, &c. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Cucumbers. — Attend as previously advised to thinning 
and stopping, set the fruit blossom when open, keep the 
inside of the frames watered with warm water, and apply 
some occasionally to the roots. Water overhead on fine 
days, shutting up with 75° or 80° of heat. 

Cherries. — They will be benefited by frequent syring- 
ings at all times except when in bloom. Air to be given 
on all favourable occasions, shutting up with as much 
solar heat as possible. Xeep down the green fly and look 
well after caterpillars. 

Figs — Maintain a kindly humidity, but do not syringe 
overhead, except on very fine days, as too much moisture 
is apt to cause the fruit to drop off or to turn yellow. 

Peaches. — Tie in the forwardest shoots in the early- 
house as they advance ; gradually disbud and thin out 
all the shoots that are not wanted ; thin the fruit but not 
too much at once, and, with water of the temperature of 
the house, syringe the trees that have set their fruit. 
Eemove large shoots cautiously, and reserve, in tying 
and disbudding, merely sufficient wood for next spring. 

Pines. — The atmospheric heat to be gradually increased 
in the fruiting-house, and the plants to be frequently 
syringed, taking care that no water is allowed to lodge 
in the hearts of the plants. The plants swelling their 
fruit to be watered occasionally with clean soot water, 
air to be admitted on every favourable opportunity, but 
cold draughts to be avoided. A good heat to be kept up 
in succession-pits worked with linings. 

Strawberries. — To be placed near the glass with 
plenty of air, and in favourable weather to be liberally 
supplied with warm manure water, and the surface of 
the pots to be frequently stirred. 

Vines. — As soon as the first swelling is completed, and 
the stoning process commences, allow a little more liberty 
to the laterals to induce a corresponding increase of root 
action. All shoots to be properly trained up j but none 



26 



FEBRUARY — FOURTH WEEK. 



to be allowed to touch, the glass. All small bunches to 
be removed when in flower. When the fruit is set, the 
heat by day may be allowed to rise from 70° to 80°. See 
to the border coverings, if out-doors, as also border 
waterings, if in-doors. Be careful when admitting air to 
the early Vines, to avoid cold currents and changes, for 
in the space of an hour we have sometimes strong sun- 
shine, sleet or snow, and cutting winds. Vines in pots 
to be supplied with plenty of manure water in all stages of 
growth, but especially when swelling off their fruit. 




TttARCH — FIRST WEEK. 



27 



MARCH. 

FIUST WEEK. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Frequent attention is now necessary in the giving 
and taking away of air as the alternations of bright sun- 
shine and clouds occur, and also to temper coM winds 
by the admission of air on the south side. If severe 
weather has been now experienced, and extra fire heat 
used in consequence, many plants that may appear all 
right may, nevertheless, be very dry, and if they are 
not examined, and when very dry, well soaked with water, 
they will soon show unmistakeable signs of approaching 
death. 

Azaleas (Indian). — Young plants that have commenced 
their growth to be repotted. Shift Achimenes, Begonias, 
G-esneras, &c, and keep them in a warm, moist situation. 

Bulbs. — Pot Cape and other bulbs in a compost of 
loam, leaf mould, with a good sprinkling of sand, as soon 
as they begin to make growth in foliage. 

Heaths. — Continue to shift as they may require, using 
sandy heath-soil full of fibres, with an abundance of 
drainage. Be sure that the ball is thoroughly moist 
before shifting ; for if perfectly dry when that operation 
is performed the waterings afterwards given will pass 
freely through the fresh soil without penetrating the old 
ball. Give them all the air possible, avoiding north or 
north-east winds. 

Potting must be in progress, and include a good pro- 
portion of the occupants of these houses. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Push Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Stephanotises, &c, 
forward as briskly as possible ; but be in no hurry to train 
them, as freedom in growth is advantageous to a certain 
extent. Use all means to check the increase of insects. 



28 



MARCH— FIRST WEEK. 



Orchids. — The general collection to be favoured 
with a good steaming every clear morning for about half 
an hour : this to be done by sprinkling the flues or pipes 
when warm. Plants in a growing state to be slightly 
shaded, to prevent flagging from too copious a perspira- 
tion during a sudden mid-day bright sunshine. Orchids 
are generally increased by passing a sharp knife between 
the pseudo- bulbs (taking care to leave at least two or 
three undisturbed next the growing shoots) so as to sever 
one or more of the dormant bulbs from the parent plant, 
which should remain until it shows signs of growth, when 
it may be taken off and potted. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Cherries. — The syringe to be used freely except when 
in bloom, plenty of air to be given, and the green fly 
kept down ; shutting up with a little extra solar heat in 
the afternoons of bright days. 

Figs. — Abundance of syringing and good waterings * 
with liquid manure may now be given them. Sudden 
changes in their treatment will cause the fruit to drop, 
all the shoots when six or eight inches long to be stopped 
to encourage the formation of a second crop. 

Melons. — Use strongish maiden loam by itself to grow 
them. See to the linings, attend well to setting, and 
maintain an airy and dry atmosphere when in blossom. 
Xeep the shoots at all times thin. 

Peaches. — Frequent attention to be given in arrang- 
ing the young shoots, disbudding and thinning. A know- 
ledge of the state of the border is necessary, whether 
retentive or porous, that no serious errors may be made 
by withholding a sufficient supply of water, or by giving 
too much. The temperature of the early house to be from 
55° to 60° by night, ranging from 75° to 80° by sun heat, 
and allowing 65° by artificial heat, on dull days. 

Pines. — A day temperature of 75° to 80° to be main- 
tained during the progress of the fruit to maturity, ac- 
companied by atmospheric moisture. Succession plants 
to be supplied with a steady moist heat, and to be care- 
fully sustained after potting, to induce a healthy action 
of the roots. Shading is sometimes necessary during 
bright sunshine. 



MARCH — FIRST AND SECOND WEEK. 



29 



Vines. — As the lower parts of tlie stems are generally 
close to the heating apparatus, it is advisable to bind 
them up with moss or haybands, neatly clipped, as far as 
the parching heat extends. The moss or haybands being 
damped morning and evening with the syringe, will keep 
the bark and stems in a healthy state, and will frequently 
induce a mass of roots to be produced there. That by 
watering occasionally with liquid manure will contribute 
to sustain the vigour of the trees. 



SECOND WEEK. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

As the boisterous gales and violent showers that fre- 
quently occur at this season, succeeded by intervals of 
mild weather and brilliant sunshine, are frequently 
difficult to deal with, constant attention is necessary 
that a free admission of air, when in a genial state, may 
be given, and the cold, cutting east or north-east winds 
excluded. Frequent watering will also be necessary, 
and fires to be dispensed with, or only used occasionally, 
merely to ward off the rigour of sharp nights. The 
plants in good health, and well rooted, to receive a 
liberal shift. All plants when shifted to be accommodated 
with a little extra heat and moisture in the atmosphere 
until they begin to make fresh roots, when they will 
require to be more freely exposed, to produce a sturdy, 
vigorous growth. 

Camellias. — The plants that have finished flowering 
to be removed to a higher temperature, where a moist 
atmosphere is kept up by frequent syringings. 

Cinerarias. — Tie out the principal shoots of the most 
forward, to form handsome plants. Manure water of the 
temperature of the house to be given occasionally. The 
more backward to be shifted into larger pots as they may 
require them, and all to receive plenty of air, light, and 
room. 

Fuchsias. — They require to be accommodated with a 



80 



MAECH— SECOND WEEK. 



warm, moist temperature, both at top and bottom, and 
the free use of the syringe, to make them large pyramidal 
specimens. 

Pelaegoniums. — Attention to be paid to their training, 
to "watering, and to the admission of air. Shift on young 
plants, and stop all that may be wanted for late blooming. 

STOYE AND OBCHID-HOUSE. 

Finish the shifting of all specimen plants in the stove 
as soon as possible. A brisk, growing, moist temperature 
to be kept up during the day, and to shut up early. 
They delight in a tan-bed where the bottom heat ranges 
from 70° to 80°. 

Oechids will now require a regular looking over. 
Those on blocks of wood with moss should have the moss 
renewed, and fresh turf to be supplied to those in pots 
in a growing state. 

foecing-houses. 

The general routine in these structures will comprise 
disbudding, tying-in advancing shoots, thinning the fruit, 
watering, syringing morning and evening, airing, and 
shutting up early with plenty of solar heat ; and to be 
each and all attended to in good time to obtain satis- 
factory results. 

Cheeeies. — Caution in the application of water is now 
necessary, as either too much or too little will cause the 
fruit to drop. 

Cucumbees. — The heat of the beds, which will be 
found to decline rapidly during cold winds, should be 
kept up by fresh linings ; and air to be given daily, to 
allow the superfluous moisture to escape, taking care to 
prevent the wind from entering the frames by placing a 
mat or canvass before the openings. 

Pigs. — A free supply of water, with liquid manure 
occasionally, to be given to the most forward crop. Where 
there is the convenience, the trees in pots are generally 
placed in a pit of rotten leaves into which they root, and . 
where they are allowed to remain until they have borne 
their crops and ripened their wood, when the roots are 
cut back to the pot. Trees planted out succeed best when 
confined in brick pits, where short-jointed fruitful wood 



ilAECH — SECOND AND THIRD WEEK. 



31 



is produced without root pruning, which is necessary 
when the roots are allowed to ramble without control. 

Melons. — This is a good time to ridge-out plants, as 
the sun Trill have a powerful and beneficial influence at 
the time when it will be most wanted to ripen off the 
fruit. Pot off young plants, and sow seed for a succession. 

Pines. — Continue to keep up a regular and moist heat; 
to be supplied with soot or other manure water occa- 
sionally during the whole time they are swelling the fruit 
until they attain their full size ; watering and syringing 
overhead should be withheld when they begin to change 
colour, to give flavour to the fruit. The succession- 
plants recently potted to be very moderately supplied 
with manure water, and in a very diluted state until their 
roots reach the sides of the pots. 

Steawbereies. — Introduce succession-plants under 
glass, according to the demand. Keep the atmosphere 
dry when the plants are in bloom and near the glass ; 
admitting at all opportunities a good supply of fresh air 
without currents. 

Vines.— Persevere in thinning the bunches, as it is a 
mistake to leave more on the Vine than it is likely to 
finish off to perfection. The borders to be examined 
that a gentle warmth may be maintained at the roots. 
When the Vines are planted inside, apply good soakings 
of manure water occasionally. Thin the shoots of the 
late Vines as soon as the bunches are perceptible. 



THIED WEEK. 



GREENHOUSE and conseevatoby. 
Proceed as diligently as possible with the repotting of 
such of the hardwooded greenhouse plants as require it, 
so as to start them in good time to acquire a vigorous 
growth. 

Cacti. — The chief point in managing these plants is 
to allow them an alternate period of rest and growth. 
To be grown in a mixture of lime rubbish and loam, 



32 



MAECH — THIBD WEEK. 



with a little cowdung, and in well-drained pots. In 
summer to be fully exposed to the sun, and well watered; 
and from October to March to be kept perfectly dry. 

Calceolarias (Herbaceous). — To be shifted into larger 
pots in a compost of equal quantities of decayed turf, leaf 
mould, good sandy peat, old cowdung, and silver sand, 
with plenty of drainage and moss on the crocks. To be 
kept close for a week, after which air may be freely given, 
avoiding currents of cold air. 

Heaths. — Every vigorous shoot that is taking the lead 
to be stopped, to produce a more uniform and compact 
plant. 

Lilium lancifolium. — To be potted either in a good 
peat, with a little silver sand, or in a light sandy loam, 
using also some silver sand. The bulb to be placed two 
or three inches deep from the top of the pot to allow 
room for the stem-fibres to penetrate the soil. 

Pelargoniums. — The plants potted last month to be 
stopped back. The house to be kept rather close for a 
week or ten days, to assist them to push out their eyes. 
Those intended to bloom in May, that have not been 
stopped since cutting down, will be putting up their 
trusses, on sunny days syringe them lightly, and shut 
the house up warm, with the sun upon it, about three 
or four o'clock in the afternoon. 

STOVE AND 0ECHID-H0U8E. 

Keep a lively growing temperature here during the 
day, with a plentiful supply of moisture. Syringe, and 
shut up early, with 80° or more, allowing a fall of 20 <J 
during the night. Shake out and repot in succession 
the stove plants that have been previously recommended 
to be headed back, and encourage a free growth by 
plunging them, if possible, in bottom heat. Smaller 
pots to be used until they have filled them with roots, 
they may then receive one bold shift that might pro- 
bably be sufficient for the season. 

EOECING-HOUSES. 

Cheeeies. — These may now want thinning if too thickfy 
set ; but the operation must be influenced by the ener- 
gies of the tree and the action of the roots. Endeavour 



MABCH — THIED WEEK. 



to keep the atmosphere like fine mild weather in May. 
During the period of the stoning of the fruit, give the 
trees no water at the roots, as this is generally one 
of the chief causes of so much of it falling off at that 
time. 

Figs. — When the fruit is swelling off, the trees to be 
liberally supplied with water. The young shoots to be 
stopped to four or five eyes, with the exception of those 
that are required to fill up vacancies. 

Melons. — Continue the thinning, stopping, training, 
&c, as required. Set the early crops when in blossom, 
keeping a dry and lively atmosphere during that period. 
Air to be given freely in favourable weather, but 
cautiously, with some contrivance to break cold winds. 
Do not allow a plant to swell a fruit until sufficiently 
strong to sustain it. 

Peaches. — Be moderate in the application of fire heat 
to those that are stoning (they make little or no progress 
in swelling during the period) — say 65° by day and 6CT by 
night ; but when they commence their second swell in- 
crease the heat moderately. Stop all luxuriant shoots, 
and thin out in the second house all clusters of fruit 
when about the size of Peas. 

Pines. — The fruiting plants will be benefited by a 
watering with manure water as soon as the bloom is set. 
Succession plants, if recently shifted, to be shaded in the 
middle of the day if the sun is powerful ; to be kept rather 
close and dry, except slight sprinklings over the tops, 
until they have taken root, when they may be watered 
freely, and will generally require no more to be given 
for a week or ten days. 

Vines. — The atmosphere in the early house, where 
the bunches have been thinned, to be kept pure by a 
gradual increase of air and moisture. The night tempera- 
ture to be kept up to 65 Q , with an increase of 10° by day, 
and even more in bright sunshine. The second house 
may now be in bloom, and will require attention in tying 
the shoots and keeping up the necessary amount of heat, 
with less moisture. Where the fruit is set, give the 
Vines a good syringing, to wash off the flowers ; after 
which the leaves and fruit should not be again wetted, 
but to be supplied with atmospheric moisture by water- 

D 



34 MABCH— THIRD AND FOUKTH WEEK. 



ing the floor of the house, and sprinkling the flues ©if 
pipes, or from evaporating-troughs or pans. Give plenty 
of tepid manure water to the Yines fruiting in pots. 



FOURTH WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now 
commencing, or are in active growth, constant attention 
will be required for the judicious regulation of tempera- 
ture, and for the admission of fresh air during fickle and 
ungenial weather, and in the supply of water to the roots, 
and atmospheric moisture. 

When settled fine spring weather has arrived, every 
plant which inhabits a pot should be brought at once under 
review, and put in proper condition for the growing sea- 
son. ~No fear need then be apprehended from potting. 
Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling, &c, and 
admit plenty of air, bearing in mind former directions 
as to draughts, &c. If the plants in the borders, or any 
of the climbers, are dry, give them a good soaking of 
weak, tepid manure water. Trellis climbers to be fre- 
quently attended to— stopping, training, and arranging 
their shoots. 

Balsams. — Encourage the growth of them and other 
such tender annuals by potting them when the roots 
begin to cluster round the side of the pot. 

Calceolarias (Herbaceous). — Shift on the young stock, 
keeping the plants well down in the pots, so as to bring 
the earth in the pots up to the lowermost leaves, to 
induce the plants to throw out fresh rootlets from the 
stem. Keep a sharp look out for green fly. 

Climbers. — Prune off superfluous shoots ; stop or 
pinch out the tops of gross leaders, and keep them neatly 
tied and trained. 

Cockscombs.— To remain in small pots until they be- 
gin to show flower. 

Dahlias.— Pot off cuttings as soon as struck. 



MAKCB— FOUSTH "WEEK. 



35 



Fuchsias. — Continue to shift young plants into larger- 
sized pots, according to their height and strength ; to be 
kept growing by placing them in a brisk, moist heat. 
Cuttings to be potted off as soon as they are sufficiently 
rooted ; to be placed in a temperature similar to that in 
which they were struck. 

Sow in heat seeds of stove and greenhouse plants. 

STOVE AND OECHID-HOUSE. 

Attend to regular shifting, watering, and a free and 
healthy circulation of air, without draught, early in the 
morning to stove plants. Continue to cut down, disroot, 
and repot, as advised last week, those which have been 
flowering tlirough the winter. To be then favoured with a 
bottom heat of from 75° to 80°, and slightly shaded during 
bright sunshine. 

Some of the young plants in the stove which are grow- 
ing on for specimens will probably require a second 
shift, see to them in time ; and if they are in good health 
treat them liberally by giving a large shift, especially to 
plants of free growth. Give plenty of air at all favourable 
opportunities, and saturate the atmosphere with moisture. 
The surface of the tan to be stirred once or twice a- week, 
and sprinkle it occasionally with manure water, to pro- 
duce a moist, congenial atmosphere about the plants. 
Shut up with plenty of sun heat. Look sharply after 
mealy-bug and thrips. 

Achimenes. — The plants established in small pots may 
be removed into the flowering-pans, putting six plants 
into a pan. 

Orchids. — Increase the temperature, and ply the 
syringe among them, as they will now grow rapidly. Be 
careful not to throw too much water over those sending 
out succulent flower-stalks, for they may damp off. 
Ferret out and destroy cockroaches, woodlice, and snails. 
Calantha veraiifolia, Neottia picta, N. elata, Phaius of 
sorts, some varieties of Stanhopea,; Zygopetalum Mackayii, 
and other such Orchids that are now making their growth, 
would be benefited by an application of clear, diluted 
manure water occasionally ; a kindly humidity to be kept 
up, and the shading to be in readiness for use during 
bright mid- day sun. 



36 



MAECH— FOrETH WEEK. 



PITS AND FEA3IES. 

Sow tender and half-hardy annuals ; pot off those 
already up ; give air daily, and never allow the plants to 
flag for want of water. Pot off enttings of Dahlias, and 
continue the propagation of Fuchsias, Heliotropes, 
Petunias, Verbenas, and bedding-plants generally. 

FOECING-HOUSES. 

Beans (French). — Give them, when in a bearing state, 
a liberal supply of manure water, and see to keeping up 
a succession of them. 

Cheeeies. — When you are sure that the fruit is finally 
stoned, the temperature may be raised a few degrees ; 
air and water overhead to be liberally supplied. 

Cucumbers. — As soon as the frames are uncovered in 
the morning give a little air for an hour, to let the stag- 
nant and foul air pass off, when they may be closed again 
till the day is further advanced. As soon as the prin- 
cipal shoots have reached the side of the frame, never 
allow any of the laterals to grow more than two joints 
before being stopped. Stop frequently, and thin liberally ; 
where two fruit show at a joint pinch one away. 

Figs. — If red spider should be observed, wash the flues 
or the walls exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur. 

Melons. — Those lately planted out to be encouraged 
with a close, moist heat, to get them into free growth as 
quickly as possible. The plants that are fairly established 
to be kept cooler, admitting air at every favourable 
opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful wood. 
The shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any 
that are not wanted. The night temperature not to 
exceed 65°, and air to be admitted as soon as the ther- 
mometer rises to 75° ; but to be given very cautiously 
during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of young 
plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them 
strong and vigorous by keeping them near the glass ; to 
be provided, when they require it, with plenty of pot- 
room. Keep up the heat in the beds by renewing the 
linings ; the coverings at night to be regulated in accord- 
ance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats 
do not hang over eitner the front or back of the frames. 
aIeshbooms. — Collect materials for fresh beds, and 



MARCH — F0UETH WEEK. 



37 



give those that have been some time in bearing good 
soakings of manure water ; sprinkle the floor and heating 
apparatus occasionally. The conditions of success are 
to have the materials for making the beds well prepared 
and sweet — that is, free from rank steam, and the spawn 
to be put in whilst the heat keeps regular and moderate, 
and the beds are coated over to keep it so until the spawn 
is well established. 

Peaches. — Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in 
neatly those that are left ; thin the fruit that is swelling 
off before stoning, leaving more than may be ultimately 
required, as, in stoning, it is liable to drop off. Syringe 
the trees daily in fine weather. Where it is intended to 
force Peaches, Cherries, &c, in pots next season, and 
gome suitable trees have to be provided, it should be no 
longer postponed. It is a good plan to pot some maiden 
plants every year, to succeed any that may become 
useless. 

Pines. — Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of 
manure water, and a humid atmosphere. The fruiting- 
house may range from 80° to 85° during the day, and as near 
70° as possible at night ; the succession-pits from 75° to 
80° during day, and 60° to 65° at night. These particulars 
to be modified by the state of the weather, whether 
eunny or dull. 

Steawbeeeies. — They require plenty of light and air 
to set their fruit, when they may be removed without 
fear of injury to a stove, or any other house or pit pos- 
sessing a higher temperature. The plants swelling their 
fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a sprinkling 
overhead daily. When the fruit begins to change colour 
the sprinkling to be dispensed with, and the supply of 
water at the roots to be given sparingly. 

Vines. — If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation 
of air, accompanied with a high temperature, will be 
advantageous. Attention to be given, where fermenting 
materials have been used for warming the borders, that 
the heat is not allowed to decline at present under the 
influence of the March winds. Attend to last week's 
advice as to tying, disbudding, &c, and proceed with the 
thinning the fruit in the succession-house as soon as the 
berries are fairly set. When thinning be as careful as 



38 



HAECH— FOUKTH WEEK. 



possible of the bunches — neitlier pull them about with 
the hand, by which rust on the berries is frequently 
produced, nor with whatever the shoulders may .be held 
up by at the time of thinning, as, by the twisting of the 
stalks, shanking is not unfrequently produced. Attention 
to be given in stopping all laterals, and breaking off all 
useless shoots for the more free admission of light, which 
is most beneficial in every stage of their growth. Look 
over houses where the fruit is swelling, and see if any of 
the bunches would be improved by tying up the shoulders. 
Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should be in- 
arched before the wood gets too old. 



APRIL, 



FIRST WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in 
tliese houses have been completed, I hope, before this 
time ; but if not, the sooner they are done the better. 
Keep up a moist atmosphere, sprinkling the plants with 
tepid water twice or thrice a week ; and pay attention to 
the destruction of insects the moment you can perceive 
them. 

Camellias. — As the plants go out of bloom, it is ad- 
visable to syringe them freely, shutting up early with 
solar heat, and maintaining a kindly humidity during the 
time they are making their growth. 

Fuchsias. — Supply them liberally with water when in 
full growth, and shade slightly during bright sunshine. 

Heaths. — To be kept free from strong currents of dry 
air ; rambling growth to be stopped. 

Liliums. — Give them a liberal supply of water, and a 
top dressing of turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed 
cowdung. 

New Holland Plants. — Give such plants as young 
Boronias, Dillwynias, Dracophyilums, Eriostemons, Les- 
chenaultias, Pimeleas, Polygalas, &c, a tolerably- close 
corner of the house ; stop the young growth as it may 
require it ; keep them clean, and repot them when 
necessary. 

Pelargoniums. — Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, 
without loss of time, and shift the smaller ones into larger 
pots. The roots will feed greedily on oyster-shells, 
broken very fine at the bottom of the pot. Put in 
cuttings for flowering in September and October. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular cir- 



40 



APRIL— FIRST WEEK. 



culation of air, using an abundance of water about the 
floors ; and syringe frequently air plants and others sus- 
pended. Shut up a solar heat, if possible, of 80° towards 
three or four o'clock. 

Achimenes. — Shift them, and also Gesneras, and pot 
others for succession. 

Begonias. — When the flowers begin to decline, the 
plants may be reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and 
be kept close for some time afterwards. Put in cuttings 
of them, if not attended to before ; and also cuttings of 
Eranthemums, Euphorbias, Gesneras, Justicias, IAnums, 
&c. 

Clerodendrons. — Give them plenty of room and en- 
couragement to grow. 

Orchids. — They should have a mild, but regularly 
moist, atmosphere for a few weeks until they begin to 
grow ; no water to be applied until that period, and then 
with moderation. 

forcing pit. 

Get in Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, and 
other such plants from the dung-frame, that will be use- 
ful for the summer and autumn decoration of the green- 
house and conservatory. 

forcing-house. 
Cherries. — If all the petals have dropped, and the 
fruit is set, the temperature may be raised to 60° by day 
and 50° by night, and syringed in the evening three or 
four times during the week. A sharp look out should be 
kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle in them 
destroyed. 

Figs.— If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees 
liberally with water ; stop the young shoots at the fourth 
or fifth eye. Temperature, 65° by day and 55° by night. 

Melons. — The supply of air and water must be regu- 
lated by the state of the weather and the temperature of 
the bed. The plants sometimes show one or two fruit 
at an early period of their growth, which should be picked 
off, as they would prevent the swelling off of others. 
The vines, or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and 



APEIL— EIEST AND SECOND WEEK. 



41 



when they have nearly filled the frame, or other allotted 
space, several fruit should be impregnated at one time. 
Sow for successlonal crop. 

Peaches and Nectaeines. — Pinch off laterals, and tie 
in the shoots as they advance in growth. If green fly 
makes it appearance, fumigate the house ; but if only a 
few shoots are infested, dip them iu tobacco water. When 
the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin them to the 
number you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors, 
which is better than pulling them off. 

Pine Apples. — The plants should now be making rapid 
growth, and, therefore, will require a liberal supply of 
water. Fruiting plants may now be turned out of their 
pots into prepared beds, selecting those that are not very 
forward. The fruiting-house may range from 80° to 85° 
during day, and from 65° to 70° at night. The successions 
from 75° to 80° by day, and from 65° to 70° at night. 

Steawbeeeies.— When out of bloom, give them a 
liberal supply of water, syringe freely, and keep down 



Vines. — If forcing were begun early in December, 
whether with Vines in pots or established Vines, the colour- 
ing process will have now commenced. When such is the 
case, admit air freely on all favourable opportunities ; but 
avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which frequently cause 



later houses, attend to thinning, tying, and stopping 
laterals. The last house to be closed early in the after- 
noon. As the buds, in most cases, will be considerably 
advanced, it is advisable to syringe frequently ; to apply 
plenty of moisture to the floors and paths ; and to post- 
pone the application of fire-heat as long as possible. 



geeenhouse and conseevatoet. 
Some of the most hardy and woody plants may be 
removed from the greenhouse to a cold pit, where they 




rust and other imperfections 




SECOND WEEK 



42 



itPBIL — SECOND WEEK. 



can be protected from frost. It will make more room for 
the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, and other such plants. 

Azaleas. — Such as have done blooming to be repotted, 
and their fresh growth to be gently promoted in a higher 
temperature for a short time. 

Camellias. — Continue to keep a moist atmosphere 
about the plants making wood, with a temperature of 
about 65° by day and 55° by night. Air to be given at 
all opportunities, to produce sturdy, short-jointed wood. 
The plants in flower to be shaded during bright sun- 
shine. 

Cinerarias. — Eegular attention to be given to them, 
that they may not suffer by want of water. 

Climbers.— Regulate them as they grow, more par- 
ticularly those in pots which are intended to cover a 
wire trellis. Kennedy as, Thunbergias, Nierembergias, 
Tropseolums, and other such plants of a slender and tender 
habit, delight in a soil the greater proportion being com- 
posed of leaf mould. 

Chrysanthemums. — Strike cuttings, and pot off rooted 
suckers. 

Heaths. — Any requiring repotting, should receive that 
attention without delay, apportioning the size cf the 
pot to the vigour of their growth; as the free-growing 
kinds will require more room than the less vigorous 
ones. 

I^ew Holland Plants. — As many of them are now 
either in flower, or approaching that state, they will, con- 
sequently, require a larger quantity of water, — more 
especially large specimens not shifted since last season. 
Continue to pinch off the tops of the leading shoots, to 
produce bushy plants. 

Pelargoniums. — Attention to be given in tying up, 
watering, and fumigating, if the green fly appears. 



STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

As the soft-wooded stove plants will now be making 
rapid growth, the free admission of light is necessary to 
prevent them from drawing ; using shade only during 
scorching sunshine. When a plant is shifted, give less 
water to the roots ; as the fresh soil, after the first water- 



APEIL— SECOND WEEK. 



43 



ing will be moist enough for some time. Some of the free- 
growing kinds of Cattleyas, Calanthes, Phaiuses, Sacco- 
labiums, Stanhopeas, and Zygopetalums, should be en- 
couraged to make kindly growth by frequent syringings 
about their pots, blocks, or baskets. 



EOECING-HOTJSES. 

Cheeeies. — The principal objects to be attended to 
are — abundance of air, with due precaution against cold 
draughts, a moist atmosphere, and the free application 
of the syringe. The temperature the same as last week. 
Particular attention in watering to be paid to the trees 
in pots, — as too much is as bad as, if not worse than, too 
little. 

Pigs. — Continue stopping the young shoots at the 
fourth or fifth eye. Keep the syringe in frequent use 
until the fruits begin to change for ripening. Plenty of 
water, and occasionally a little weak tepid liquid manure, 
to be given at the roots, more especially when they are 
confined in pots or tubs. 

Melons. — As soon as a sufficient number of fruit 
blossoms for a crop are expanded, or are likely to expand 
within a day or two of each other, they should be im- 
pregnated. As prevention is better than cure, keep the 
plants in a healthy-growing state by frequent syringings 
in fine weather, and closing early ; insects will but rarely, 
if ever, attack thriving plants. 

Peaches and ISTectaeines. — As soon as the stoning of 
the fruit in the early house is completed, give them 
a good watering with clear, weak liquid manure ; keep 
the shoots tied in regularly, and pinch off all laterals. 
If the fruits in the late house are set, partially thin them ; 
as more dependence may now be placed on a crop than 
at an earlier period of the season. 

Pine Apples. — Fruiting plants will be greatly bene- 
fited by strong solar heat, as, under its influence, eva- 
poration will be rapid ; therefore, water must be applied 
to both roots and leaves. Succession plants to be shaded 
during sudden bright sunshine or sunbursts ; and be 
guided in the application of water by the active or in- 
active state of the roots. 



44 APKIL — SECOND AND THIKD WEEK. 

Vines. — ThinDing the fruit is an operation of pri- 
mary importance. The first thinning to be performed 
when the berries are the size of Peas ; the second when 
they begin to be crowded ; and the third after the berries 
are stoned. A piece of strong wire, eight or ten inches 
long, crooked at one end, is useful to draw the bunches 
backward and forward, as the operator may require. 
The Vines in the late house to be tied up as soon as they 
begin to break. Syringe them every fine afternoon, and 
close the house early. Give air early in the , morning, 
that the leaves may become gradually dry before the sun 
acts powerfully upon them. 



THIRD WEEK 

gbeenhotjse and conservatory. 

Keep the conservatory as cool by day as is consistent 
with the health of the plants. By such means they will 
remain longer in bloom, and will be more enjoyable for 
parties inspecting them. 

Camellias. — Continue to encourage the growth of those 
that have done flowering by increasing the temperature, 
by frequent syringings, and by a liberal supply of water 
at the roots. If any have made their growth, and have 
formed their blossom-buds, they will require more light 
and less moisture for the future. 

Cineeaeias. — To continue them in a healthy blooming 
state it is necessary to attend to them carefully, that they 
may not droop for want of water, nor be saturated with 
it. When the sun is powerful, slight shading is neces- 
sary for a few hours in the middle of the day, to prevent 
the blooms from losing their brilliancy ; and plenty of 
air to be given when the weather is mild. 

Fuchsias. — Having been treated with plenty of heat 
and moisture, they will now be making rapid growth, 
and will be fit to shift into their blooming-pots, using a 
light, rich soil for the purpose. 

New Holland Plants.— Top and syringe frequently 



APSIL — THIED WEEK. 



43 



all such plants as are growing freely. Stake and tie them 
as they may require. 

Pelargoniums. — Continue to stake and tie the shoots 
that require it in due time. Some clear liquid manure 
(cowdung water, for instance) may be given to plants that 
are well established with roots and showing their trusses 
of bloom ; and sufficient space to be given for each plant 
to develope its natural beauty. We would advise shading 
only when there is a fear of scorching from the usual 
sudden sunbursts of April weather. Ply the syringe 
every fine evening to refresh the plants, and to keep 
down insects, until the flowers expand, when syringing 
should be discontinued. 

STOVE AND OECHID-HOUSE. 

The stove plants recently potted will now be making 
fresh growth. Allow no diminution of bottom heat, and 
keep up a warm, moist atmosphere. Give air when the 
thermometer indicates 90°. Continue to shift Gesneras, 
Clerodendrons, and other such free-growing plants, as 
they require it. The Brassias, Cattleyas, some of the 
Dendrobiums, Gongoras, Peristerias, Phaiuses, Sobralias, 
Zygopetalums, and other such Orchids, will now be 
growing freely, and will therefore require a consider- 
able amount of atmospheric moisture. If the roof is 
covered with climbers, a little management in trimming 
them will obviate the necessity of outside shading, and 
will give an additional feature of interest to the house. 
The plants on blocks, or suspended in baskets, will re- 
quire very frequent syringings to keep them in a healthy- 
growing state. Plants in bloom may be removed to the 
conservatory, or any other house with a drier atmosphere, 
to prolong their period of blooming. 

FOECTNG-HOTTSE. 

Cheeeies. — When they begin to change they will 
require free exposure to light, and abundance of air, to 
bring out their colour ; and^ at the same time, a diminu- 
tion in the supply of water. Carefully examine all curled 
leaves, and destroy the grubs they contain. If the trees 
are very luxuriant, and are making strong foreright 



46 



AP3IL — THIED WEEK. 



shoots, stop them to within a few buds of the main 
branch. 

Figs. — Give the trees in pots some clear liquid manure 
when they are swelling off. Stop the shoots at about six 
or eight inches, and thin out any useless shoots. Syringe 
and water freely. 

Melons. — Keep the vines thin, and stop regularly. 
Shade only in very hot weather. Water sparingly over- 
head. Plant out succession crops. 

Peaches and Nectaeines. — When the fruit in the early 
house has gone through, the critical process of stoning, 
the final thinning should take place ; the borders — if 
inside, or out, or both — should be copiously supplied with 
water ; using liquid manure whenever a weak habit, from 
poor soil or over- exhaustion, shows it to be necessary. 
Syringmgs to be given twice a-day — early in the morning 
and at shutting-up time. The night temperature to be 
no more than 50° ; but during the day it may range tq 
85°, if accompanied with air in liberal quantities. 

Pine Apices. — Lessen the moisture amongst the fruit- 
ing plants when they approach maturity. Shift and grow 
on the young stock in a moist atmosphere : admit air 
freely in fine weather : prepare beds, and turn out the 
plants, if preferred. 

Steawbeeeies. — They should be kept near the glass : 
temperature, 65° to 70° by day, and 55° to 60° by night; 
succession crops rather cooler. Heduce the water to those 
ripening. Support the stems, and thin the fruit where 
superior produce is wanted. Keep them clear of runners 
and decayed leaves, and give an abundance of air. 

"Vines. — Continue to thin the Grapes in the early 
houses : a few berries may require to be taken out of 
some of the bunches up to the time of their changing 
colour. Keep up a high temperature— about 75° by day 
and 60° by night : in later houses, where the bunches 
are in course of formation, it is a great object to bring 
them out well. In later houses, where the bunches 
are formed, or in bloom, let the heat be moderately 
increased, and admit an abundance of air at all favour- 
able opportunities. Shift pot Yines often, and keep 
them near the light. 



APRIL— FOURTH WEEK. 



FOUETH WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The plants that are introduced to the conservatory 
from the stove, forcing-pit, or any other such structures, 
merely for the blooming season, will require particular 
care to be taken in the application of water that they 
may not become sodden and diseased. Continue to stop, 
prune, or pinch back all rambling and luxuriant shoots 
in due time. Stir the surface of the bed in the conserva^ 
tory, and apply fresh soil, to maintain the plants in good 
health. 

Azaleas, Chinese. — Supply them liberally with water 
at their roots during their blooming season, and prevent 
damp and drip from injuring the bloom. 

Calceolarias. — The herbaceous sorts that have been 
pushed along in a gentle heat will now be showing bloom, 
and will require to be grown in a cool, airy place, to pre- 
vent the flower-stems from being too much drawn. Keep 
down green fly. Shift on young stock, keeping the plants 
well down in the pots as they throw out fresh rootlets 
from the stem. Cuttings taken off now will root readily 
in a gentle bottom heat. 

Camellias. — Apply shading the moment it is neces- 
sary, to protect the young leaves. 

Fuchsias.— -Grow them steadily on in a moist, warm 
temperature. Use the syringe freely. Stop any that 
have a tendency to be long-jointed, to produce uniform 
and bushy plants. 

Heaths. — Admit air liberally to them, and such other 
hard- wooded plants that are now in bloom, or approach- 
ing that state. 

Pelargoniums. — Shift on young plants. Any that are 
wanted for late blooming should now be stopped. 

Rhododendrons, Hybrid Indian. — Treat as advised 
for Azaleas. 

stove and orchid-house. 
Continue a kindly moistness amongst the Orchids, and 
slightly increase the temperature. Shade with tiffany, 



48 



APRIL— FOURTH WEEK. 



or close-meslied netting, in bright sunny weather ; re- 
moving it early in the afternoon. Water liberally all 
that are making free growth. Repot any that may re- 
quire it as soon as they have fairly commenced their 
growth. Continue to give liberal shifts to the free- 
growing young stock of stove plants, slightly shading for 
a few hours in hot weather, shutting up early in the 
afternoon, and producing a kindly humid atmosphere by 
damping the walls, floors, pots, &c. 

Begonias. — Repot and propagate. This is one of the 
most useful tribe of plants that can be grown, both for 
the stove and the adornment of the conservatory. 

Clerodendrons. — Encourage by a moist heat. 

Climbers. — Keep them neatly tied up, and give them 
liberal supplies of water, if in pots. 

Gardenias. — They delight in a close atmosphere ; a 
pit with dung linings is most congenial to them. 

Gesnera zebrina. — Pot bulbs for late flowering. 

forcing-houses. 

Cherries. — Thin out the fruit where in large clusters ; 
admit plenty of air at favourable opportunities, and never 
allow the trees in tubs, or pots, to become dry. 

Figs. — The same as last week. 

Peaches and Nectarines.— Keep the leading shoots 
regularly tied in, and pinch out the points of some of the 
stronger ones. 

Pine Apples. — It is advisable to keep all that are 
starting, or have already started, into fruit, at one end of 
the house, or pit, that more air may be admitted to them 
than to the others more advanced, to produce a more 
robust growth, and to avoid the necessity of using 
stakes to support the fruit. Air to be admitted freely 
to the succession plants at every favourable opportunity. 

Strawberries (in pots). — Where fruit are colouring, 
keep a rather dry atmosphere, with a liberal supply of 
air, in order to secure flavour. When the plants are in 
bloom, keep them near the glass, and the atmosphere dry, 
with a good supply of fresh air ; but avoid currents of 
frosty air. Introduce succession plants under glass ac- 
cording to the demand. Do not expose those from w hich 
fruit has been picked to the open air till well hardened 



APEIL — FOTJETE WEEK. 



-10 



off. Give them the protection of a cold pit for a time, 
as they are invaluable in open-air plantations. 

Vines. — "Where the fruit is on the change to colouring 
admit air on every favourable opportunity, not forgetting 
to give it in the morning before the sun shines on the 
house, to prevent the condensed vapour, which would affect 
them injuriously, from settling on the bunches. Attend 
to stopping the laterals, thinning the young shoots, tying 
in leaders, &c, in the later houses. Remove the top 
dressing from the outside border, to allow the increasing 
power of the sun to act beneficially upon it. 



ZO MAY — EIEST WEES, 



m a r. 

FIRST 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATOEY. 

Attend in due time to all plants that require potting- 
into larger pots ; and pinch, off the tops of all that are of 
a rambling or loose habit of growth, to make them com- 
pact and bushy. 

Azaleas. — As soon as they are out of bloom, take them 
into heat to make their growth, syringing them frequently 
and supplying them occasional!}* with manure water, and 
shade for a short time in the middle of the day when 
the sun is powerful. 

Calceolaeias. — Give them weak liquid manure occa- 
sionally, and shade those in bloom. 

Cinebabias. — When done flowering, cut the stems 
down, to favour the development of suckers, and remove 
them to a cold pit or frame. 

Cliaibees. — Keep all neatly trained. 

Heaths and New Holland Plants. — The late-flower- 
ing sorts, or such as have already flowered, and the 
young stock intended for another season, may be re- 
moved to cold pits or frames. Such plants as require it 
must be shifted, stopped, and shaded : particular atten- 
tion being paid that they do not get dry at the root. 

Pelaeg-ontcms. — Shade such as are in flower : and 
shift and stop such as are wanted to flower late. 

STOVE AND OECHID-HOESE. 

Keep up a kind humidity and a gradual increase of 
temperature in correspondence with the increase of solar 
light, and shut up early in the afternoon with sun heat. 
Continue to propagate the choice stove plants, and keep 
ail free from insects. 

ACHIMENBS. — Pot off. 

Begonias. — Continue to repot as they go out of bloom, 



MAY — FIRST WEEK. 



51 



pruning in any straggling shoots, and propagate as advised 
last week, Keep them close, and syringe frequently, 
when they will soon commence growing. Keep them 
some distance apart, to allow their fine foliage to expand. 
The following are good sorts : — Prestoniensis, Cinna- 
barina, Fuchsioides, Martiana, Zebrina, Barkeri, Rubra, 
and Argyrostigma. 

G-loxinias. — Hepot where necessary. 

Succulents. — Opuntias, Melocacti, and Epiphyllum, 
to be excited into vigorous growth by intense light and 
abundance of heat and moisture. 



Ckeebies. — Temperature 65° to 70° by day and 50° at 



Figs.— Stop and thin the shoots. Keep a damp atmo- 
sphere, and use the syringe over the foliage, when the 
house, or pit, is shut up in the afternoon, to keep down 
red spider. "When the fruit is ripening, the syringe must 
be dispensed with, and the atmosphere kept drier ; but, 
as there is generally a succession of fruit on the trees, 
water must not be wholly withheld at the time of the 
first crop ripening, as it would endanger the succeeding 
one ; but it may be given more sparingly. 

Melons. — Stop and keep the shoots very thin. When 
the crop is safely set, give the soil a good soaking of 
clear, tepid manure water. Let swelling fruit be exposed 
as much as possible to the light. 

Peaches. — Continue to stop all gross shoots, which 
will both increase the size of the fruit and the smaller 
shoots at the bottom of the tree. The syringe, when 
used frequently, is useful for the same purpose, and to 
keep down insects. Air and light to be admitted, to give 
flavour and colouring to the ripening fruit. 

Pines. — The fruiting plants now swelling, and in pots, 
may be treated with a little clear liquid manure. Guano 
water, or soot water, or both combined, will produce a 
perceptible improyement in foliage and growth, with the 
caii-ion that it be given in a warm, clear state, and not 
too strong. Ply the syringe freely on warm afternoons, 
and close up with a temperature of 85° or 90° ; giving air 



EOECING-HOUSE. 




52 



MAY — FIRST AND SECOND WEEK. 



again towards evening. When indications of ripening 
by changing colour appear, desist from the use of the 
syringe, and give them no further supplies at the root. 

Strawberries. — When ripening their fruit they may 
be placed in a frame where a free admission of air can be 
given. 

"Vines. — Encourage the young stock intended for grow- 
kig in pots next year, to make healthy, luxuriant growth, 
by giving them plenty of pot room and manure water, to 
set them in a light situation in some of the forcing-houses, 
and to pay early attention to the leaders as they advance 
in growth. Where Muscats are growing with Hamburghs 
and other such free-setting varieties, it is advisable to 
keep up a brisk day-temperature for the Muscats during 
their season of blooming, and until their berries are fairly 
set, with a reduction to a night-temperature of 65° or 68°, 
to suit the other varieties. 



SECOND WEEK. 

greenhouse and conservatory. 

A free ventilation is of importance, and by closing 
with a humid atmosphere early in the evening a vigorous 
growth will be promoted. Liberal shifts to be given to 
such plants as may now require them, before their roots 
become matted. Remove all plants intended for bedding 
out, and let them remain for a short time under the pro- 
tection of a cold frame, or in beds hooped over, and 
covered at night with mats, or other such protecting 
materials. This gradually -hardening-off will better en- 
able them to withstand unfavourable weather, if it should 
occur after they are planted out. 

Azaleas.— All irregularities of growth should be cor- 
rected by pruning. We have lately seen the beneficial 
effects of close pruniog on such plants ; they had been 
cut in severely last season by removing strong, straggling 
branches of old wood, to give some a spherical and others 
a pyramidal form. When pruned, the ball was reduced, 



MAY — SECOND WEEK. 



5;; 



the plant fresh potted in a smaller-sized pot, and the peat 
soil rammed as hard as it was possible to make it ; then 
watered, and introduced to heat. The plants treated in 
that manner are now covered with bloom, and in a high 
state of vigour. 

Heaths. — Keep the tops pinched off, to form bushy- 
plants. 

ISTew Holland Plants. — Some of them of weak 
growth, and which naturally make long, straggling shoots, 
are much improved by bending down the branches, and 
fixing them to a wire hoop, or string attached to the rim 
of the pot. By such means the nakedness of the plant 
at its base is hidden, and the check imposed on the ascent 
of the sap will induce an increased supply of shoots. 
Pick off the seed-pods as the plants go out of bloom. 
Cut back and arrange the shoots in the best manner, to 
produce compact growth. 

Pelargoniums. — All that are showing bloom, unless 
of very gross habit, will receive benefit from a supply of a 
little weak manure water. For that purpose put cow, 
horse, or sheepdung into a tub, and to one peck add fiv® 
gallons ot rain or other soft water. When taking it for 
use draw it off clear, and give the plants a watering twice 
a week. Give air freely, shut up early, and syringe the 
plants overhead till the flowers expand, when syringing 
should be discontinued. As the petals are apt to drop 
very soon in hot weather, it is recommended to touch the 
centre of the flower with a camel-hair pencil, or small 
feather, dipped in gum water, which will stick the petals 
together and prolong the blooming. Such is the general 
practice at our metropolitan exhibitions. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

As the stove plants grow, allow them more space,- 
especially such plants as are prized for the beauty of 
their foliage. Give frequent attention to stopping and 
training. Look to the climbers frequently, to regulate 
their growth and to prevent entanglement, and a world of 
trouble and confusion. Put in cuttings of such plants as 
Brugmansias, Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Erythrinas, 
Poinsettias, and those winter-flowering plants Euphorbia 
jaquinijlora and the Gesnera bullosa. Where there is 



MAY— SECOND WEEK. 



only one house in winch to grow Orchids, a compromise 
as to temperature must be made to suit the native's of the 
hot and moist valleys or shady woods of the East, and 
those which inhabit high and airy regions in the Western 
hemisphere. To accomplish this it is advisable to allow 
a free circulation of air during the early part of the day, 
with an abundance of atmospheric moisture, and to shut 
up early in the afternoon with a high degree of tempe- 
rature. 

Achihenes. — They delight in a moist heat, and a 
partially-shaded situation. More air to be given as 
they advance in growth, The shoots to be staked out 
neatly. 

Gesneeas to be treated similarly, with the addition of 
more light. 

Glosinias. — The same as AcHmenes. 

EOECING-HOUSES. 

Ceeeeles. — Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere 
when the fruit is ripening. G-ive plenty of water to the 
trees swelling their fruit. Xeep them free from insects, 
or the fruit will be of little value. 

Figs. — Air freely, to give flavour to the fruit now 
ripening. Avoid wetting the fruit when it begins to 
soften. 

Melons. — Keep up the heat of the beds by renewing 
or turnmg the linings. Slightly shade the plants when 
the sun is powerful, to keep the foliage in a healthy state, 
without which good fruit cannot be produced. When 
the frames are at liberty, Melons may be grown in them 
with a little assistance from dung heat at bottom. 

Peaches. — Give a liberal supply of air, with less water, 
to trees, the fruit of which are ripening. 

Pines. — Continue the previous instructions in the 
management of the plants in the different stages of 
growth. 

Vines. — Thin and stop the shoots, and thin the berries 
in good time. Attend to the late crops, and set, by hand, 
the blossoms of Muscats, West's St. Peters, and other 
shy setters. Be sure that inside borders are properly 
supplied with water, giving sufficient quantities to tho- 
roughly moisten the whole mass of soil. 



MAY — THIRD WEEK 



THIRD WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Attend carefully to the stock of plante for summer 
and autumn decoration, and do not allow them to suffer 
for want of pot room and water. 

Azaleas.— -Continue to encourage all that have flowered 
by timely potting, syringings, and applications of weak 
liquid manure. 

Camellias. — Introduce a gradual declension of artificial 
heat amongst all that have completed their growth. A 
curtailment in the supply of water, giving merely suf- 
ficient to keep them from flagging, will induce the pro- 
duction of blossom-buds. 

Epacris. — Repot with a pretty large shift the early- 
flowering sorts that have freely commenced their growth. 
Use good fibrous heath soil, rejecting any of a spongy 
or greasy nature. Such plants, for some time after being 
newly shifted, require particular attention in watering, 
that the soil may not become soddened. Let the plants 
be placed in a cold pit, and be slightly shaded during- 
bright sunshine. The stopping or pinching out the points 
of strong shoots must be regularly attended to during 
their growing season, to establish a uniformity of sturdy- 
growth. 

Heaths and New Holland Plants. — All that have 
flowered, and have made their season's growth, may be 
removed to cold pits, or frames, to allow those that re- 
main, and are promising to flower, more air,, sun and 
light. 

stove and orchid-house. 

Keep up a liberal supply of humidity, with ventilation, 
at favourable opportunities. The plants here should now 
be growing very freely, and should; therefore, receive 
frequent attention as to stopping, training, &c. Keep 
them properly accommodated with pot room, and allow 
them all the sunshine they will bear without scorching % 
also, allow them sufficient space for the development of 
their foliage. Plenty of moisture is now requisite to 
encourage a free growth in Orchids, to get their pseudo- 



50 



MAY — THIRD WEEK. 



bulbs firm, well nourished, and ripened in good time. 
Free ventilation in favourable weather and a slight 
shading in bright sunshine are also requisites for their 
healthy growth. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

» >> 

Cherries.— When the fruit is ripening, air to be given 
freely, even to the drawing the lights off completely in 
favourable weather. Fires may be discontinued alto- 
gether, unless the nights are very cold. 

Figs. — Give them plenty of water in all their stages 
of growth ; discontinue the use of the syringe during the 
ripening process. They frequently require attention in 
stopping all long young shoots. 

Melons. — If there is a sufficient depth of soil for the 
plants, they will not require any large supplies of water 
after the fruit is swelling off ; but it will be necessary to 
sprinkle the plants overhead, and to shut up early every 
fine afternoon with a good heat. Lay the fruit on a tile . 
or piece of slate. 

Peaches. — When the fruit is swelling off, or beginning 
to ripen, admit air freely in favourable weather, even to 
the drawing off the lights entirely, so as to admit a free 
circulation and the direct influence of the sun, by which 
flavour and colour are best attained. Continue to stop 
all very-luxuriant shoots, and thin out the young wood. 
Some persons lay in plenty of young wood to select from 
in winter pruning ; but fruit-bearing wood, regularly dis- 
posed all over the tree, is best attained by the judicious 
and successive thinning of useless shoots during their 
growing season. Continue to tie in the shoots of the 
late houses. 

Pineries. — When the repotting of the plants has 
recently taken place it will be necessary to shade for 
several hours, during bright sunshine, for a few days ; 
but for the general stock shading should be dispensed 
with as much as possible — as short, stiff leaves and sturdy 
growth are best attained by judicious airings and hu- 
midity. Do not water much at the root immediately 
after repotting. Maintain a brisk bottom heat to the 
succession plants. Admit plenty of air during favourable 
weather. 



MAY — THIED AND FOUETH WEEK. 



57 



Vineeies. — As the fruit in the early houses become 
coloured, it is advisable to remove all superfluous or 
rambling shoots ; but to retain and to preserve with the 
greatest care the principal leaves — as the good quality of 
the fruit and the healthy condition of the tree for the 
ensuing season will depend upon the number and healthy 
state of the principal leaves. 



FOURTH WEEK. 

GEEENHOUSE axd conservatory. 

As most plants here are now in active growth, they 
will require a liberal supply of water. If the sun shines 
very brightly, a slight shading would be of benefit for a 
few hours on very hot days. 

Azaleas, Chinese. — "When done blooming, they suc- 
ceed best in a close pit, kept moderately moist and slightly 
shaded in the middle of the day. If they are too large 
for a pit, they will do well in a vinery, or in any other 
large house where they can stand at a distance from the 
glass without shading. 

Balsams and Cockscombs. — Promote their growth by 
shifting them into larger pots, in rich soil, with an abun- 
dance of light near the glass, and heat. 

Camellias to be treated as advised for Azaleas. 

Geeaniums. — If any remain after the flower-garden 
masses are furnished, they should be potted and treated 
with every attention as to watering, &c. When they 
have made fresh roots, and begin to grow freely, to be 
stopped, to make bushy plants. Calceolarias, Fuchsias, 
Petunias, Verbenas, &c, treated in a similar manner, will 
be useful as a reserve to succeed the greenhouse plants 
that are now in bloom, and to fill up vacancies as they 
occur in the beds and borders. 

Heaths and New Holland Plants. — Many being 
now in full growth will require an abundance of water, 
more especially in bright weather. Many fine specimens 
are frequently lost through imperfect watering ; for if 
the ball is once allowed to get thoroughly dry, all en- 



58 



MAY — FOURTH WEEK. 



deavours to restore the plant to health and vigour are 
generally unsuccessful. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Ornamental stove plants— such as Brugrnansias, Centra- 
denias, Clerodendrons, Eranthernums, Euphorbias, Geis- 
somerias, Gesneras, Justicias, Poinsettias, &c, to be 
supplied with clear liquid manure, and to have their 
rambling shoots stopped. Many of the free-growing 
plants will require shifting occasionally. The great 
object should be to get rapid growth when light abounds, 
and thus to secure luxuriant foliage at the right season, 
when there will be more time for the wood to be pro- 
perly matured for winter. The sy ringings to be given 
early in the afternoon, that the plants may get dry before 
night. 

Achimenes. — When grown in large seed-pans they 
produce a fine effect. 

FORCING-HOUSE. 

Cherries. — Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere 
when the fruit is ripening. Give plenty of water to the 
trees now swelling their fruit. Syringe frequently, and 
keep the foliage and fruit free from insects. 

Chrysanthemums. — Pot off as soon as rooted. If not 
already struck, the cuttings should be put in at once. 

Cucumbers. — Stop them, and water freely. All that 
are intended for ridges, if hardened off, should now be 
planted out. See that the ball of earth is well soaked 
with water before planting. 

Figs. — Give them plenty of air during the day in fine 
weather, with abundance of water. TJse the syringe 
freely, except when fruit is ripening. 

Peaches. — Although a dry atmosphere is necessary to 
give flavour to the ripening fruit, it is not advisable to 
withhold water altogether from the roots while the trees 
are making their growth. Water the inside borders in 
the morning in clear weather, so that any vapour that 
arises may pass off during the day. The outside borders, 
if dry, should also be watered as far as the roots extend, 
and then mulched, to prevent evaporation during hot, 
dry weather. If the early-forced trees have naked 



MAY — FOURTH WEEK. 



59 



branches, some of the earliest-made wood may be taken 
from the trees, and buds inserted from it in the barren 
parts. Buds inserted now may start into growth in July, 
and be stopped when about six inches long, to get the 
wood well ripened. 

Pines. — A bottom heat from 80° to 85° must be kept 
up to the plants intended for fruiting in the autumn. It 
is advisable, where practicable, to allow the stools from 
which fruit has been cut to remain in the house for some 
time ; to supply them liberally with water, and occa- 
sionally with liquid manure ; to encourage the growth 
of the suckers. 

Vines. — In the houses where Grapes are ripening, the 
temperature may be allowed to rise to 90°, with sun heat, 
and to decline to 60° at night. In the succession-houses 
thin the bunches, and do not be covetous to over-crop 
the Vines, as it is the cause of many bad effects. Stop 
laterals, and use the syringe freely in the afternoons. 



60 



JUNE — FIBST WEEK. 



JUNE. 

EXEST WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Azalea Indica. — Encourage free growth, as soon as 



in heat, supplying an abundance of water, and syringing 
freely. 

Calceolarias. — Water carefully ; cut down when out 
of bloom, and remove them to a cold frame. 

Heaths and New Holland Plants. — The young 
stock will now succeed best in a pit, or frame, placing the 
lights to the north. The glass to be well washed, and the 
pots to be placed on tiles, or ashes, above the ground level. 

Pelargoniums. — Give air freely, avoid cold draughts, 
and shade from scorching sun. Shift and stop the suc- 
cession stock for late flowering. 

Petunias. — Do not neglect to pot off from the store 
propagating pots some of those, as advised last week, as 
also Scarlet Geraniums, Verbenas, Heliotropes, &c, to 
afford a variety of sorts and colours for the conservatory. 



Let rambling shoots of ordinary stove plants have 
frequent stopping. The Aerides, Dendrobiuins, Phalse- 
nopses, Saccolabiums, Sarcanthuses, Sobralias, Vandas, 
and others of the eastern genera of Orchids, will now 
require most liberal and frequent waterings and syring- 
ings. Gongoras, Peristerias, Stanhopeas, &c, when full 
of roots in baskets, require a thorough soaking. Now is 
a good time to pot Cymbidiums, Peristerias, &c, starting 
into growth. Aerides, Vandas, and plants of a similar 
habit, do best when shifted after they have done blooming. 

Achimenes. — Continue to shift them, as also Begonias, 
Clerodendmas, Gesneras, &c, as requisite. Remove those 
in bloom to the greenhouse or conservatory. 




blooming, by placing them 



STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 



JUNE — FIRST WEEK. 



61 



Climbers. — Keep them thin and lied in, so as not to 
shade the rest of the plants to an injurious extent. 

Succulents. — Shift Melocacti, &c, and keep them 
growing, and near the glass. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Cherries. — The trees in large pots or tubs, from which 
the crop has been lately gathered, should have abundance 
of air, and an occasional supply of liquid manure. Give 
them, also, a good washing overhead with the syringe, or 
engine, dashing it on with considerable force. They will 
also require to have their wood matured early. 

Figs. — Continue the practice of stopping when the 
shoots are four or five eyes long. Give a liberal supply 
of water, and thin out the second crop where too thick. 

Melons. — Keep the shoots thin, and remove all use- 
less laterals. When the fruit is swelling, the soil should 
be kept in a properly moist state, and the foliage in a 
healthy condition. The bottom heat should not be allowed 
to sink below 75°. 

Peaches. — Keep up a growing temperature with plenty 
of air and moisture, and frequently syringe the trees, to 
keep them clean and healthy. The ripening fruit will 
require plenty of air. 

Pines. — Hepot as they may require; for if they are 
allowed to remain in a pot-bound state at this season 
they are very apt to start prematurely into fruit. It is 
also particularly requisite that the balls are thoroughly 
moist at the time of repotting. To give strength to tbe 
growing stock, it is advisable to admit abundance of air 
in the morning part of the day ; and in the afternoon, to 
encourage a high degree of heat with an abundance of 
atmospheric moisture. The plants growing in open beds 
to be supplied with a steady bottom heat of from 80° to 
85°, and sufficient water to the roots. 

Vines. — Proceed diligently with thinning the berries, 
as they swell rapidly at this season. The late houses in 
which the Vines are in bloom to be kept warmer and 
closer than they have been, until the fruit is set. Stop 
the shoots and laterals, and never allow a mass of useless 
wood to remain on them. 



fi2 



JUNE — SECOND WEEK. 



SECOND WEEK. 

GEEENHOUSE AND CONSEEVATOEY. 

The principal part of the greenhouse plants may now 
be removed to an out-of-door situation, open to the morn- 
ing sun, and protected from high winds, and be placed 
on. some hard bottom through which the worms cannot 
get into the pots. The specimen plants that remain 
should be turned round from time to time, that they may 
not get one-sided ; and allow them to have plenty of 
room on all sides. Also, the young plants intended for 
specimens should have their flower-buds picked off, to 
encourage their growth. 

Balsams. — Encourage them by frequent shifts, and 
keep them in bottom heat, and near the glass. The pre- 
maturely-formed flower-buds- to be picked off, as the 
plants should attain a considerable size before they are 
allowed to bloom. 

Calceolaeias. — The most critical time is after the 
plants have flowered ; if allowed to produce seed, they 
generally die off — Nature having completed her task. 
When the bloom begins to fall, cut the plants down, 
and repot into a larger size ; place them in a cold frame 
facing the east, the lights on during the day, with air, 
and entirely off during the night, unless in rainy weather, 
as the night dews are highly beneficial. Treated thus 
the plants will soon produce new shoots, which must 
be taken off and pricked out into small pots in a very 
open soil, and placed in a very gentle bottom heat to 
strike. When rooted, to be shifted into pots of a larger 
size. 

Cineeaeias. — The plants that have bloomed through 
the season to be cut down, turned out of their pots, and 
to have at least half the old soil removed from their roots. 
Prepare a piece of ground, in a sheltered situation, with 
leaf mould or rotten dung and sand, in which the Cinera- 
rias are to be planted, one inch below the level of the 
soil, in rows fifteen inches apart and one foot apart in 
the row. When planted, to be well watered. 

Climbebs. — The Passifloras, Mandevilla suaveolens, 
locoma jasminoides, and other such climbers in the con- 



JUNE — SECOND WEEK. 



63 



servatory, will now be growing very freely, and will 
therefore require frequent attention to keep them in 
order. The young shoots may be allowed to grow in a 
natural manner, merely preventing them from getting too 
much entangled, or growing into masses. 

Etjchsias. — When in a healthy -growing state they 
require an abundance of water and frequent syringings. 
Train them in the desired form, and pinch back all weak 
and straggling shoots. 

Heaths and New Holland Plants. — Examine them 
very carefully, and be sure that they are in a proper state 
as to moisture. The young plants which are not bloom- 
ing will do best if placed in a pit where they can be ex- 
posed or not, as may appear necessary. To lay a proper 
foundation for a good specimen it is necessary to stop 
and to train the shoots into form. 

Kalosanthes. — Train them neatly, increase the supply 
of water, and give them liquid manure occasionally. 

STOVE AND OECHID-EOTJSE. 

Continue to shift the young and growing stock of stove 
plants. To harden the wood of the early-grown plants, 
for autumn or winter flowering, it is advisable to remove 
them to some cooler place, such as the shelves of the green- 
house. The baskets, in which the Stanhopeas will now 
be blooming, should be carefully examined to see that 
the buds, as they protrude, may not be injured by con- 
tact with the side. Many stove plants and Orchids in 
flower, if taken to a late vinery, or such intermediate 
house, will thus be prepared, in a short time, for removal 
to the conservatory during the summer. 

Climbees.— When the shrubby plants are large, the 
climbers hanging loosely give a sort of tropical character 
to the house , but, either hanging, or trained in wreaths 
or festoons, they require pruning and regulating, to pre- 
vent them becoming entangled, and, therefore, a confused 
mass of wood and foliage. 

FOECTNG-HOUSES. 

Cheeeies. — Give air night and day in fine weather. 
Figs. — When the ripest of the fruit is gathered, give 



64 



JUNE — SECOND AND THISD WEEK. 



the trees a good syringing overhead, to cleanse and 
refresh the leaves, and to keep down insects. 

Melons. — To be slightly shaded with a net, or a few 
pea-sticks, during bright sunshine in the middle of the 
day, to prevent the scorching of the leaves ; for if such 
occurs, the fruit ripens prematurely, and is, in con- 
sequence, without flavour. 

Peaches. — When the fruit is ripening, give as much 
air as possible during the day, and when the nights are 
mild and warm leave the lights open. When the fruit 
in the succession-house is stoned, give a good watering to 
the roots, and syringe the trees frequently, as previously 
advised. 

Pines. — Apply an abundance of moisture to the path- 
ways of the fruiting-house during bright weather. Give 
plenty of air, but allow at the same time the thermometer 
to range from 90° to 95°. Shut up when the rays of the sun 
are getting partially off the house, and ply the syringe 
freely about the leaves and stems of the plants, and the 
surface of the plunging material. Air to be given an hour 
or two afterwards for the night. 

Vines. — Keep thinning the berries and stopping the 
laterals as they advance, which, with syringing and giving 
air, is the principal work to be done. 



THIED W EES. 

GREENHOUSE and conseevatoey. 
The stock of plants out of doors to be carefully looked 
over in showery weather that they may not suffer from 
imperfect drainage. The more delicate sorts to be re- 
turned to the houses, or protected by some means during 
heavy rains. 

Camellias. — When they are kept in-doors give . an 
abundance of air night and day, with an occasional ap- 
plication of the syringe, keeping the paths and floors 
damp. When they have ceased growing, and have 
formed their flower-buds, discontinue to syringe the 



JUNE — THIED WEEK. 



65 



plants overhead, as it sometimes starts them into a 
fresh growth that will be the destruction of the flower- 
buds. 

Chrysanthemums.— Plant them out eighteen or twenty- 
inches apart in an open piece of ground. Some to be 
left to grow as standards on one stem, and others to be 
topped, to make them bushy. 

Cinerarias. — In raising seedlings it is advisable to 
select each parent plant, distinguished for its dwarf habit 
and decided colour, and to place them by themselves in a 
pit or frame. The seed should be carefully gathered as 
it ripens. It should be sown in shallow pots, or pans, well 
drained with crocks ; then some siftings, and over that 
some light soil, with some finer and more sandy on the 
surface, covering the seeds very lightly with the same ; 
and slightly sprinkling, or watering, through a very fine 
rose, and the surface covered with a little moss, to prevent 
evaporation. In a few days the seedlings will be up ; 
then remove the moss, and let them remain in the pots, 
or pans, until they are large enough to be handled with 
safety ; then pot them in small pots, and keep close for a 
day or two. 

Lilium lancifolium. — Give attention to them; as 
also to tree Carnations, Salvia splendens, Scarlet Gera- 
niums, &c, for autumn and early winter flowering. 

Oranges. — The same as advised for Camellias. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Achimenes. — Repot, as also Begonias and Gesneras, 
for succession of late bloom. 

Luculia gratissima. — Propagate by cuttings. 

Some of the Orchids will now require to be topped up 
a little with fresh soil. The Barkeria sfectahilis, Epi- 
dendrum Skinneri, the Lycastes, Odontoglossum grande, 
&c, will now enjoy the temperature of the conservatory. 

forcing-house. 

Figs. — Continue to stop all shoots when five or six 
joints long. Never allow the trees in tubs, or pots, to 
want water ; they now require daily attention. 

Melons. — Shade them during bright sunshine for a 



66 



JUNE — THIED WEEK. 



few hours in the middle of the day, If the red spider 
appears, rub sulphur vivura, mixed with water, on slates 
or tiles, and place them in the pit, or frame, where the 
sun's rays may fall upon them. 

Peaches. — Admit plenty of air when the fruit is ripe, 
or nearly so. "When the crop is gathered, give them 
a good washing with the syringe. Those changing for 
ripening, if the trees are young and vigorous, to have a 
general stopping of the strong shoots all over the higher 
parts of the tree. To keep down red spider, it is advisable 
to wash the walls, pipes, or fiues, with sulphur vivum 
reduced to the consistency of paint ; or to paint some 
slates, tiles, or common saucers, with the mixture, and to 
place them in different parts of the house, where the sun 
can shine upon them. 

Pines.— If the pot plants in fruit are in a healthy con- 
dition, well furnished with roots, an occasional supply of 
clear manure water, in a warm state, may be given with 
advantage to them. 

Steawbeeeies. — As it is necessary, by early attention, 
to ensure a healthy, vigorous growth, therefore, as soon 
as the runners have emitted the least portion of root, 
take them off, and prick them out on a rich piece of 
ground, or on an old hotbed where Radishes or early 
Potatoes have been grown under hoops, where, Avhen the 
weather is hot, they are more convenient to shade, and 
require less water. 

Vines. — When the fruit is cut in the early houses, 
ripen the wood by exposing it night and day, except 
during heavy rains. Water to be gradually withheld 
as the growth of the plants declines, and somewhat 
in the proportion in which you would have vegetation 
stop, not all at once, but gradually. The Vines with 
fruit now stoning may be allowed to produce a few re- 
dundant shoots if there is sufficient room to lay them 
in without crowding, or overlapping the old wood, or 
shading the old leaves. The late Grapes to be finally 
thinned, their shoulders to be tied out, and every use- 
less shoot to be removed. Keep the Vines in pots 
trained, and exposed to light, and apply weak liquid 
manure frequently. 



JUNE — FOURTH WEEK. 



67 



FOTJETH WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSEEVATOEY. 

Many of the finer kinds of hard-wooded plants— such 
as Boronias, Epaerises, &c. — will now be out of bloom, and 
will require cutting in rather closely, to form neat bushy 
plants. Some of the greenhouse plants will most pro- 
bably require shifting, and should receive that attention 
now, or, at latest, by the middle of next month. Keep a 
sharp look out for insects of all kinds, and also for mildew ; 
and give the plants, if the weather is dry, a sprinkling 
once or twice a- week .from the syringe or garden engine. 

New Holland Plants. — If any are retained in the 
house, let them be placed where they can have a suffi- 
ciency of light and fresh air, and at the same time in a 
place where the sun has no power on the pots ; but if 
such cannot be avoided, place the pot containing the 
plant in another two sizes larger, and fill the intervening 
space with moss. 

Pelaegoniums. — When out of bloom, they should be 
placed in the open ground for a fortnight or three weeks 
to ripen the wood before they are cut down. 

Scaelet Geeaniums. — To prepare them for winter 
blooming it is advisable to place the pots during the 
summer on a hard bottom out of doors and in the full 
sun, and to pinch out the flower-stems as they appear. 
To be carefully attended with water. 

stove and oechid-house. 

Keep up a kindly humidity by frequent syringings, and 
keeping the floors, paths, &c, damp. Many of the stove 
plants — viz. ,Clerodendrons, Ery thrinas, Gardenias, Ixoras, 
Jasmines, Liliums, Pergularias, Stephanotises, &c. — may 
be removed to the conservatory, where the flowers will 
attain a deeper colour and retain it for a longer period 
than if they had remained in the stove. 

Euphokeias. — Propagate jacquiniceflora and fulgens, 
and grow them on a successional system of culture for 
furnishing the conservatory and stove throughout the 
autumn, winter, and spring. 

Gesneea eebeina. — Keep up a succession in variolas 



68 



JUNE — FOURTH WEEK. 



stages of growth, and place another batch of tubers in 
a pan. 

FOKCING-HOUSES. 

Give particular attention to the preservation of the 
foliage in houses where the fruit has been gathered, 
keeping the atmosphere cool and moist; and give the 
trees an occasional washing with the engine, to keep down 
red spider and the leaves clean and healthy. 

Chekries. — When the trees are planted in the house, 
and the fruit has been gathered, give all the air possible 
by throwing it entirely open. Give them a good washing 
occasionally with the garden engine. When the plants 
are in pots, it is advisable to place them on a hard bottom 
on the north side of a wall or fence. 

Melons. — Bottom heat is necessary for their healthy 
growth ; without it a check would be given that would 
be sure to produce a most injurious effect on the swelling 
fruit. Water to be given to the plants overhead occa- 
sionally. 

Peaches. — Continue to maintain a moist, healthy at- 
mosphere while the fruit is swelling. Give air sufficiently 
early in the morning, to prevent the sun scorching the 
foliage. Syringe and shut up early in the afternoon. 

Pines.— Continue to provide proper bottom and surface 
heat, and give attention to airing, watering, syringing, 
and shifting in due time. By such means a large amount 
of healthy growth may now be secured for the fruit- 
swelling and succession plants. The plants swelling their 
fruit to be also favoured with a high temperature, a moist 
atmosphere, and plenty of water, and occasionally manure 
water at the root. If worm-casts appear in any of the 
pots, water with lime-water in a clear state. 

Vines. — As the dry atmosphere necessary for the pre- 
servation of the ripe bunches is conducive to the increase 
of red spider, the sulphur must be immediately applied 
as advised last week. Discontinue the use of the syringe 
as .soon as the succession crops begin to ripen. Check 
the growth of laterals by timely pinching. Give the 
final thinnings to the latest Grapes ; and as they are fre- 
quently required for winter use, a good thinning should 
be given, as crowded bunches and berries will not keep 
late in the season. 



JULY — FIRST WEEK. 



JULY. 

PIE ST WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The plants permanently planted out in the borders of 
the conservatory should have a thorough soaking of weak 
liquid manure. Give all the air possible at this season, 
both night and day, and keep the house as neat and clean 
as possible. If it contains many tender stove plants, 
shut it up for an hour while the sun is on it in the 
evening, so as to produce a more genial atmosphere for 
them. 

Achimenes. — Encourage them, as also Clerodendrons, 
&c, to grow and to prolong their beauty in the con- 
servatory by supplying them with liquid manure, taking 
particular care not to give it too strong, especially at 
first. 

Cinerarias. — Sow seed immediately. Plants for early 
blooming should also be potted and started at once, 
choosing the strongest suckers for the purpose, and 
placing them in a cool, shady frame until they have made 
fresh growth. 

Chrysanthemums. — Propagate some for blooming in 
small pots. 

Heaths. — Pluck off the flowers and seed-pods as soon 
as they become unsightly, and prune straggling growth. 
The softwooded kinds — such as the ventricosa, &c. — do 
best in a sheltered situation in the open air, with means 
to protect them during heavy rains ; while the woolly- 
leaved — such as Masonii, &c. — and hardwooded varieties 
delight in cold pits where the glass can be shaded or 
used for protection as necessary. Examine the plants 
which were not shifted in the spring, and, if necessary, 
pot them without delay ; but if they require to be cut in, 
to make them bushy, it will be best to Jet them break 
afresh before they are repotted. 



70 



JULY — FIEST WEEK. 



Leschenattltias. — If they have done blooming, and 
are pot-bound, to be repotted and placed in a shady 
place to make their growth. 

STOVE AND 0ECHID-H0USE. 

Give abundance of air to the stove plants at all favour- 
able times, and abundance of moisture by all means. 
Examine young specimens that were potted early in the 
season, and shift at once such as require more pot room. 

Ixoeas. — Encourage the young plants by giving them 
plenty of air both night and day, to make short, sturdy 
growth ; and discontinue stopping them for the season. 

FOBCTNG-HOUSES. 

Cheeeies. — When the fruit has been gathered from 
the trees grown in tubs, or pots, it is advisable to place 
them in some open, airy quarter, to make their wood for 
next season's bearing. 

Figs. — G-ive liberal supplies of water to the trees now, 
throwing up their second crop. A top dressing of old 
cowdung would now be useful. Pinch out the top buds, 
if the shoots are growing very long. It should be a 
practice to manage the trees during the summer that 
nothing more than a slight thinning out should be wanted 
at the winter pruning. 

Melons. — G-ive attention to the crops now growing, in 
thinning out the shoots, stopping, &c. 

Peaches and Uectaeixes. — When all the fruit is 
gathered, and the wood seems well ripened, it will be 
best to take the lights quite off, and place them under 
cover until wanted again. Plenty of air to be given 
to the trees that are spelling off their fruit. Also, stop 
in succession many of the strong shoots about the period 
the last swelling commences. Use the syringe freely 
over the leaves early in the morning and again in the 
evening. 

Pixes. — Give abuu dance of air to the fruiting and suc- 
cession plants, and during dry, hot weather, saturate 
the paths and every open space with moisture, to prevent 
the leaves of the plants becoming brown. If such a 
practice be regularly adopted during hot, bright sunny 
weather, shading will seldom or never be necessary. 



JULY — FIBST AND SECOND WEEK. 



71 



Be at the same time particular in maintaining a mild, 
genial bottom heat, 

Vines. — The houses containing ripe fruit will require 
to be kept dry and well ventilated ; those swelling will 
still require attention to keep a regular steady tempera- 
ture with regular supplies of air. Muscats very frequently 
require fires during the night and on wet, cold days. 



SECOND WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND 'CONSEEVATOEY. 

Achimenes. — They delight in a steady, moist heat ; to 
be shaded in the middle of hot days, to prevent the sun 
from scorching the foliage ; and never to be watered over- 
head. 

Cacti. — Hemove them to a dry, airy place as soon as 
they have finished their growth. 

Cockscombs. — They can be grown with strong, short 
stems, and very large heads, if they are allowed to remain 
in small pots until the flowers are formed, then potted 
in large pots in a compost of one-half rich loam, one- 
fourth leaf mould, and one-fourth sand, and supplied with 
as much liquid manure and moist heat as possible. 

Fuchsias. — As the plants progress in growth give them 
plenty of air and moisture, occasionally moistening the 
paths, walls, and stages with clear manure water, and 
syringe the plants both morning and evening overhead. 

Globe Aiiaeanthus. — To be potted into 48-sized pots, 
in which they will flower in a soil composed of peat, loam, 
and leaf mould, or rotten dung. They should be allowed 
to stand near the glass, and be subjected to a moist heat 
of not less than 75°. 

Heaths. — If mildew appears, dust them with flowers 
of sulphur. When watering, give them a good soaking, 
so that every part of the ball is thoroughly wet, and then 
withhold further supply until it is again completely dry. 

Japan Lilies. — As they are succulent in growth, keep 
them well and liberally supplied with water. The flower- 



72 



JULY— SECOSTD WEEK. 



stems to be properly sticked, so as to keep them in due 
bounds, and also to assist in presenting a large mass of 
flowers to the eye at once. 

Pelargoniums. — If the plants have been exposed to 
the open air, as advised in a previous calendar, they will 
now be fit to cut down. After the plants are cut down, 
place them in a shady place until the most forward young 
shoots are one inch long ; then shake them out, and repot 
into small pots, using sandy loam and peat only, and 
placing them in a close, cold frame until they begin to 
grow again ; after which freely expose them to the 
weather until heavy rains in autumn, or the approach of 
frost, renders it necessary to house them for the winter. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Cleanliness is indispensable amongst the Orchids, use 
a sponge to remove filth from the leaves. See that no 
plants are neglected in standing in corners or behind 
large plants ; arrange and re-arrange frequently, as it 
tends both to promote the healthy growth of the plants 
and a pleasing variety in the house. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Cucumbers. — Although bright hot weather may pre- 
vail, it is advisable to keep up a brisk, regular bottom 
as well as top heat. Strike cuttings of choice sorts for 
winter bearing. 

Melons. — The same as advised for Cucumbers, as they 
both delight in plenty of heat to keep them healthy and 
in regular bearing. Give them good soakings of weak 
manure water occasionally, and shut up early on all fine 
days, sprinkling the sides of the pits or frames, and the 
plants at times overhead. When watering the plants 
never allow any to fall on the main stem. If gum, or 
canker, appears, apply lime to the parts affected. Old 
plants cut back should be stimulated to grow freely. 

Peaches. — Any tendency to premature decay in the 
leaves of those from which the fruit has been all gathered 
to be arrested by liberal waterings at the roots and by 
syringings. 

Pines. — Keep up the temperature from 90° to 95° by 
day and from 70° to 75° by night, with plenty of moisture 



JULY — SECOND AND THTKD WEEK, 



70 



among the growing plants and swelling fruit. Shift the 
successions as the roots fill the pots. 

Vines. — Uncover the house, or give all the air possible 
night and day as soon as the Grapes are gathered, unless 
the wood is not fully ripened, in that case the house 
should be closed in the afternoon at a good heat. Stop 
the laterals on the later Vines, thin and tie up the bunches, 
and maintain a steady, moist temperature, with plenty of 
air, but do not syringe the bunches. 



THIED WEEK. 

greenhouse and conservatory. 
If any of the stove plants, as lately recommended, 
have been brought into the conservatory, they will re- 
quire a free admission of air at every favourable oppor- 
tunity to keep the atmosphere of the house dry. The 
plants must be kept clear of decaying leaves and flowers. 
Some judgment is also required in watering recently 
repotted plants, that they may not be injured by satura- 
tion in cloudy weather, nor by drought in hot sunny 
days. 

The growth of twiners should be carefully regulated, 
allowing them sufficient freedom to develope their natural 
habits as far as other considerations will permit. 

Continue to shift the hardwooded plants as they re- 
quire it. A turfy compost of three -parts sandy heath 
soil of a fibrous and rather lumpy character, and one-part 
loam, will suit the majority. Particular attention should 
be paid to the drainage, more especially to the crock at 
the bottom ; for if that is flat, and not hollow, it matters 
but little how much depth of drainage material rests 
upon it, the soil will soon become saturated and sour. 
Remember that the final shift should be given in good 
time to those intended to flower in the autumn. 

Calceolarias (Herbaceous). — Sow seeds ; the compost 
to be equal parts of peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten 
dung, with a small portion of sand. Place a layer of 
broken crocks two inches thick at the bottom of the pot ; 



n 



JULY — THISD WEES. 



then fill up within half an inch of the rim with the com- 
post, passed through a fine seive. After the pot has 
been gently struck on the potting-bench to settle the soil, 
the surface must then be made level with a flat piece of 
wood, or the bottom of a small garden pan or saucer. 
Sprinkle the seeds regularly oyer the surface, do not cover 
with soil, and water with a fine rose ; then to be placed in 
a cold frame, and be kept shaded from the sun. 

Chorozema. — The beauty of this genus for early spring 
display is generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires 
no commendation from me. They delight, like most other 
New Holland plants, in- sandy peat containing plenty of 
fibre, and require plenty of air at all times, and also to be 
kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large pot 
and frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen. 

Chrysanthemums. — Continue to top the plants that 
have been planted out in the open ground. 

Epacris. — The varieties of this genus are most useful 
for the adornment of the conservatory in early spring. 
They delight in fibrous peat, broken rough, mixed with 
fine white sand. The young plants to be frequently 
stopped by pinching oil the points of the shoots while 
growing, to induce them to throw out laterals ; those 
again to be stopped until the plants have attained a size 
sufficient to warrant their blooming. 

Gardenias. — If any have been removed to the con- 
servatory while in bloom they should be returned to heat 
as soon as the bloom is over, to encourage growth and to 
allow them sufficient time to mature their growth 

Eutaxia myrtifolia. — It is a profuse and early 
bloomer. During the summer and autumn every .new 
shoot should be stopped as soon as it has attained two 
or, at most, three joints : by such treatment it can be 
easily formed into a neat, compact specimen. 

Winter Flowers. — The 'Cinerarias, Chinese Prim- 
roses, Heliotropes, Perpetual, Tea, and other Hoses, will 
require frequent and diligent attention as to watering, 
shifting, &c. 

stove and orchid-house. 
Give immediate and regular attention to the young 
stock of stove plants intended for winter blooming. Keep 
up a moist temperature at all times ; with air during the 



JULY — THIED WEEK* 



day. When a few days of gloom occur, the Iriimidity 
that sometimes becomes stagnant and injurious should 
be dissipated by a free circulation of air when bright 
weather "re burns. lieep a free circulation of air amongst 
the Orchids by day ; endeavour to supply an abundance 
of atmospheric moisture during the latter part of the day ; 
and dispense with shading as much as possible by using 
it only" during a few hours of the hottest part of the 
day. 

Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. 
Keep them neatly tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case 
may require. Give them a plentiful supply of water, 
and, if not in flower, syringe them frequently over- 
head. 

Stanhopeas. — About the end of this or the beginning 
of next month is the most proper time to remove and re- 
pot them. Persons who wish to grow fine specimens 
ought to put them in large baskets, or pots, so that they 
may not require to be shifted for several years, as then 
the plants grow much finer and flower better than when 
annually shifted. Wow, as soon as they have done 
flowering they commence growing, when they should 
have plenty of heat and moisture until they have com- 
pleted their pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced 
to a comparative state of rest by gradually withholding 
water until they show flower ; then to be supplied with 
atmospheric moisture, but should have no water at the 
root, or at least but a small portion, until they begin to 
grow. As all the plants belonging to this genus push 
their flowers downwards, it is advisable to have them 
elevated, or put in baskets, where the flowers can get 
through and show themselves to advantage. 

FOECING-HOUSES. 

Pigs. — Supply with plenty of water the roots of the 
trees that are swelling their second crop ; ply the syringe 
frequently amongst the foliage, and sprinkle the paths, 
&c, to keep the atmosphere moist. Shut up early in the 
afternoon. As the fruit of the first crop ripens, curtail 
the supply of atmospheric moisture — otherwise before 
they reach maturity they are apt to turn mouldy. The 
roots to be regularly supplied with water, and some 



76 



JULY — THIRD WEEK. 



liquid manure added about once a week to assist the 
second crop. Keep down red spider by the applica- 
tion of sulphur in the manner so frequently advised 
of late. Give the fruit that is ripening the benefit 
of the sun, by fastening on one side the leaves that 
shade it. 

Peaches. — The fruit will be all the more delicious 
for a comparatively cool temperature while ripening. 
Examine the fruit daily, and gather before it is over- 
ripe and loses its flavour. 

Pines. — Maintain a good bottom heat, and encourage 
the growth of the advancing crop by kindly humidity 
and allowing them plenty of air and sufficient space from 
plant to plant. Give air, also, freely to the young stock 
in dungpits, to secure strong stocky growth ; but a cir- 
culation should not be allowed by giving back and front 
air at the same time during hot drying winds. Attend 
to former directions to afford the plants swelling their 
fruit a moist atmosphere by frequent syringings and by 
sprinkling the paths and every other available surface until 
the fruit begins to change colour, when the atmosphere 
and soil should be kept rather dry, to improve the fruit's 
flavour. See to the stools from which fruit have been 
cut. Earth them up, so as to cause suckers to strike 
root. G-ive them a brisk bottom heat, and proper sup- 
plies of water. You will thus gain time and assistance 
for the suckers from the declining strength of the parent 
plant as long as possible. It is now a good time to 
start a lot into fruit, as they will have two or three 
most favourable months for swelling, and will come in 
at a season when they are in very general request. 
Keep the bark-bed moderately moist, as in that state 
it will retain its heat much longer than if it is allowed 
to get dry. 

Vines. — Keep up a brisk heat to the late Grapes 
during the day, as it is advisable to get them well ripened 
before the season gets too far advanced. By such means 
they will be of better quality and keep longer than if the 
ripening process be delayed to a later period. Do not 
allow plants in pots to remain in the house to cause damp, 
which, despite every care in ventilating, is apt to settle 
on the berries and spoil them. The outside borders of 



JULY — FOURTH WEEK. 



the late houses should be watered and mulched, if the 
weather continue dry. 



FOUETH WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The conservatory should now be gay with Balsams, 
Cockscombs, Euchsias, Grlobe Amaranths, Heliotropes, 
and the varieties of Japan Lilies. Strict attention must 
be paid to all plants in these structures that they do not 
suffer from the want of water. Continue to stop over- 
luxuriant growth, to obtain compact, sturdy specimens. 
On the evenings of hot, dry days, after the plants have 
been watered, give them a slight syringing, or sprinkling, 
over the leaves, and also the ground upon which they are 
standing. 

Aotus gracillimus. — When done blooming, to be cut 
down close to the pot. 

Aphelexis and Helichrysums. — When past their 
best state, cut the flower-stems close into the old wood ; 
to be set in a cool shady place until they begin to grow, 
when any that require it may be repotted. 

Chrysanthemums. — Propagate by cuttings, or layers, 
to obtain dwarf stocky plants. Continue to top the 
plants that have been planted out in rows in the open 
ground, as advised some time ago. 

Cinerarias. — Pot off the first batch of seedlings and 
offsets. Sow seed. 

Euchsias. — Shift in the last batch, and put in cuttings. 

Leschenaultias. — When they are going out of bloom, 
or past their best, remove the flowers and flower-buds, 
and put them in a cool place to start again. 

Kalosanthes. — When done blooming, the flower-stems 
and all straggling growth to be cut in closely, to form 
compact specimens for another season. 

Pelargoniums. — Cut back the principal stock, and 
treat them as advised lately. 

Pimelea spectabilis. — When that and the other kinds 



78 



JULY — FOURTH WEES. 



have done blooming, to be freely cut in, and to be set in 
a cool shady place to break. 

Polygalas to be treated in the same manner as the 
JPimeleas. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Look out for insects in the stove, and destroy them as 
soon as visible. The Gishurst Compound is worthy of a 
trial. Pollow former instructions as to moisture and air. 

Ixoras. — When done blooming to be cut in rather 
closely, to be started in a gentle heat to make fresh 
growth. The Orchids suspended on baskets, or on blocks 
of wood, require a soaking of water at the roots, and 
frequent, but slight, syringings overhead. A little fire- 
heat applied in the afternoon will be of service to them. 

forcing-houses. 

Figs. — If the second crop on the earliest trees is 
advancing towards maturity, as soon as the fruit begins 
to ripen the atmosphere should be kept dry and rather 
cool, giving air freely every line day. Xeep the foliage 
clean and healthy, and clear from insects, and do not allow 
the young shoots to get crowded. 

Melons. — Keep up a good bottom heat when the fruit 
is setting. Keep the plants on which the fruit is ripening 
rather dry at the root, with an abundance of air in fine 
weather. 

Pines. — Air to be admitted freely during hot weather 
to fruiting and succession plants. Particular care will 
be necessary in the application of water that they may 
not suffer for want of it, or by saturation. The walls, 
paths, and surface of the bed to be kept constantly 
moist, and frequent syringings to be given to the young 
stock. Continue all other routine operations according 
to former directions. 

Strawberries. — Some lay the runners at once into 
pots of strong, rich loam, cutting them away from the 
parent plants when they have made roots enough for 
their own support. Some prefer to lay them in small 
pots, to be shifted into larger by-and-by, and ethers pre- 
fer to lay them in their fruiting-pots. The principal 
object should be, to attain plants of a moderate growth, 
well matured and rested before forcing time. 



JULY — FOUETH WEEK. 



70 



Vines. — The early houses, when they have been 
cleared of their fruit, and the wood is properly ripened 
may have the sashes removed and repaired, if required ; 
indeed, every house is purified by free exposure to the 
atmosphere for some time. The late crops to be encou- 
raged to swell by giving the borders good soakings of 
manure water, and by being carefully thinned, more 
especially if they are wanted to keep late. A little fire- 
heat will be necessary in unfavourable weather, with an 
abundance of air day and night. 




80 



AUGUST — FIRST WEEK. 



AUGUST. 

FIEST WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The conservatory borders will now require liberal 
supplies of water. Faded blossoms to be constantly- 
removed ; straggling growth, and exhausted stock to be 
cut previous to making a new growth. As the autumn 
is fast approaching, the sooner the new growths are 
encouraged the better, that they may have sufficient 
time to mature them. All greenhouse plants will now 
be benefited by exposure to the natural atmosphere : 
the dews are more refreshing and invigorating than arti- 
ficial moisture or the application of the syringe. 

Finish potting all specimen plants ; for if left until 
later in the season they will not have sufficient time to 
fill their pots with roots, and, therefore, will be liable to 
suffer from stagnation of water at the roots. ZSTo position 
can be worse for a plant than that of surrounding it with 
fresh soil for months when the roots should be in a com- 
paratively dormant state. 

Pelargoniums. — Continue to head them down, and 
to propagate the cuttings, which will now strike freely 
in a sunny situation in the open ground. 

STOVB AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

jVIuch moisture and free ventilation will be necessary 
here during warm weather. The young plants of Euphor- 
bias, Ixoras, Poinsettias, and other such stove plants, 
to be rendered bushy by stopping them betimes. The 
JEschynanthus grandiflorus, Aphela?idra cristata, Eran- 
the mum pulchellum, Justicias, and any others that are 
intended for the decoration of the conservatory in the 
autumn and early part of winter, should be carefully 
looked over, and shifted without delay if they want 
more pot-room ; the shoots to be tied out thinly, and to 



AUGUST — FIEST WEEK. 81 

be exposed to as mucli sun as they will bear without 
scorching the foliage, to induce stocky growth. Nothing 
is more injurious to stove plants than to keep them grow- 
ing late in the season, and thus to prevent the ripening 
of the wood, which will render them more liable to in- 
juries in winter and more unproductive of flowers the 
following season. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Melons. — The plants on which the fruit is ripening 
to be kept rather dry at the roots, with free exposure to 
the air in favourable weather. A steady bottom heat to 
be kept up to the late crops. 

Peaches. — If the lights have not been taken off the 
early-forced houses, it would be advisable to remove 
them as soon as possible, that the air, rain, and dews 
may have free access to act both beneficially on the trees 
and to keep down red spider. In those houses which 
have been treated as advised in former Calendars, the 
principal object now should be to get the wood properly 
ripened. The late houses to be treated in a similar 
manner when the fruit is gathered. Where the trees in 
peach-houses have been recently planted, and are not 
yet in a bearing state, the shoots will require to be trained 
carefully, and insects to be kept down. 

Pines. — The plants growing in beds of soil to be care- 
fully attended to with water, giving at each application 
sufficient to penetrate the whole body of soil, as it fre- 
quently happens that the surface is moist while the bottom 
is quite dry. Pot a portion of the strongest successions 
for early forcing next season. 

Steawbeeeies. — Continue to lay the runners of the 
kinds you wish to force in pots until you have a sufficient 
number. 

Vines. — Muscats, now beginning to ripen, will gene- 
rally require a little fire heat to push them on; when 
ripened in good time they are better flavoured and keep 
longer than when the ripening process is delayed to a 
late period of the season. Continue to remove the stray 
laterals that begin to shade the larger leaves ; to be done 
a little at a time, as disbudding on an extensive scale is 
prejudicial to fruit trees. The young Vines in pots to 

G 



82 



AUGUST — EUaSI js^L> sLXOND WEEK. 



have every attention, to secure as much growth and 
healthy vigour as possible while the growing season lasts. 
Allow all young planted Vines to ramble freely without 
stopping them so closely, as is frequently practised. 
Before wasps and flies do much mischief to ripe Grapes, 
coarse canvass should be fixed over the top lights and 
front lights that are opened for the admission" of air. 
He move decayed berries as soon as observed, and keep 
the house containing ripe fruit dry and free from dust. 



SECOND WEEK 



&BEENHOUSE AND CONSEBVATOEY. 

Bulbs.— The selections for winter and spring flowering 
to be made as soon as possible, choosing the most suitable 
varieties for each season : to be potted at two or three 
intervals for succession. To be potted in light fibrous 
turfy loam of a sandy quality, and placed in a dry situa- 
tion : to be covered with three or four inches of old tan 
or coal ashes. 

Camellias. — The large, old specimens that have set 
their flower-buds to be carefully supplied with water; 
for if they are allowed to get too dry at the roots they 
are apt to drop their buds. Young vigorous plants, on 
the contrary, will require to be watered rather sparingly, 
to prevent them making a second growth. 

Cinerarias. — Shift as they require it, and let no 
iiegleet as to watering, &e., cause a check to their growth. 

Climbers. — To have a succession late in the season 
when flowers become scarce, it is advisable to cut them 
back for that purpose, more especially the climbers on 
rafters or ornamental trellises. 

New Holland Plants. — If any have been standing 
out of doors for some time, it is advisable to remove the 
best and most tender varieties to the cold pits, or other 
secure situations, to avoid the danger and risk of exposure 
to wet or windy weather. 

Soils.— Now is a favourable time to collect soils of 



AUGUST — SECOND WEEK. 



different sorts for future use. The advantages of fore- 
thought for such matters will become evident when the 
time for use arrives. Leaf mould, decomposed sheep, 
doer, and cowdung, road and river sand, old Cucumber, 
Melon, and other such soils, to be put in separate heaps 
in a shed, or any other dry place, protected from drenching 
rains. Each sort to be numbered, or named, that no 
mistake may occur when wanted. 

STOVE AND OBCHID-HOUSE. 

All plants intended to flower this autumn to be regu- 
larly supplied with water and occasionally with liquid 
manure ; but all the other stove plants to be watered 
more sparingly after this time, and the water to be given 
early in the morning. The house to be shut up early in 
the afternoon with a strong sun heat. Slight fires to be 
made in the daytime, if the weather is dull, so that plenty 
of air may be given to the plants. 

EOECING-HOUSES. 

Figs. — If the nights are cold, the house or pit should 
be closed early, for the benefit of the second crop of 
fruit. 

Melons. — Withhold water when the fruit is ripening, 
as a sudden supply at that time very frequently causes 
the fruit to crack and become worthless. Keep the shoots 
so thin that every leaf may receive the benefit of the 
light. Do not expose the fruit to the sun's rays till it is 
fully swelled. Grive a supply of manure water to the 
late crops, and thin out useless laterals. It is advisable 
to paint the interior of the frame, or pit, with sulphur : 
this, with slight syringings and shutting up early while 
the sun shines upon it, will keep down insects. 

Mushsooms. — Collect some very short stable-litter and 
horse-droppings, and turn them over frequently with the 
addition of a small portion of turfy loam until they are 
well incorporated. When moderately dry, to be packed 
on shelves or in boxes, and be well-beaten down in layers 
four or five inches thick, till the bed is the required 
thickness — from a foot to eighteen inches ; for success 
will depend in a great measure upon the solidity of the 
bed. To be spawned when there is a brisk heat. 



84 



AUGUST — SECOND AND THIRD WEEK. 



Pines. — If a strong body of fresh materials have recently 
been added, the watch-stieks should be frequently exa- 
mined, and any approach to a burning heat to be counte- 
racted by lifting the pots, &c. Fruit recently started 
and swelling off to have every encouragement for the 
next two months. Shut up early, to secure a strong 
amount of solar heat. Keep all the growing stock warm 
and moist, syringing them lightly twice a-day. 

Vines. — The early-forced houses, where the wood is 
nearly ripe, would be benefited by free exposure to the 
air ; but if the lights are required to remain on, cleanli- 
ness should be observed, and all laterals kept down. 
When the fruit is swelling or colouring, and when the 
weather is wet or cloudy, a gentle fire, if then applied, 
will expel damps, and be in other respects very beneficial 
to them. Stop all useless growths in the late houses ; 
do not remove the leaves to expose the fruit to the sun, 
unless they are very thick indeed, as they are the prin- 
cipal agents by which nutriment is carried to the berries. 

Vines in Pots. — When the leaves begin to fade, to 
be removed to the north side of a wall, and the pots to be 
laid on their sides, to keep the roots dry. A little litter 
thrown over the pots will protect them from sudden 
changes. 



THIRD WEEK 

greenhouse and conservatory. 
As the majority of greenhouse plants are out in the 
open air, or in pits, where they have either set, or are 
setting, their blooms, preparations should be made for 
their return, by scrubbing and washing all the shelves of 
the greenhouse, and clearing out all crevices and corners, 
to banish all insects that may be secreting there. When 
by scrubbing, brushing, &c, you have brought everything 
to the ground, let no time be lost in clearing the insects, 
rubbish, &c, off the ground, and also out of the house. 
If painting and glazing are necessary, the sooner they 
are done the better, leaving the house entirely open for 



AUGUST — THIRD WEEK. 



three weeks or a month, that the effluvium from white 
lead, which is prejudicial to plants, may pass off before 
the lights are put on again. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Shift into pots a size larger any small plants, or indeed 
any plants that you are desirous to grow fast, or to make 
specimen plants, as soon as they have filled their pots 
with roots. 

Cuttings inserted in pots of light, sandy soil, well 
drained at the bottom, will readily strike when plunged 
in the tan-bed, where there is a little bottom heat, and 
covered with bell-glasses, that will allow of the edge being 
pressed into the soil inside the pot. 

Henceforward a certain degree of care and consider- 
ation will be necessary to have the summer growth of 
plants generally — and especially that of all those whose 
period of excitement is continued over a certain portion 
of the autumn — so arranged and circumstanced as to 
secure its perfect maturity, or, in gardening terms, to 
have it " well ripened." For that purpose it is necessary 
to avoid the application of moisture beyond what is 
necessary to prevent a decided check in the growth of 
the plants, to expose them to the influence of light, by 
not suffering them to crowd or overhang each other, and 
to prevent from what cause soever the too sudden declen- 
sion of the average temperature to which they are exposed. 

The Orchidaceous Plants that are growing to have 
plenty of moisture and heat, it will be easily seen when 
their growth is completed, and then it is proper to let 
them go to rest by gradually lessening the supply of 
water, and removing them to a cooler part of the house. 

Any Orchids that you are desirous of increasing may 
be separated or potted into small pots, or fastened to 
blocks, or placed in baskets. Fill pots with pieces of 
turfy peat the size of Walnuts, and peg them altogether 
until they form a cone above the pot. On the summit place 
your plant, which is, in fact, a piece cut off another plant, 
and with four pegs or wires make it fast. Let the roots 
go where they please in the pot, or outside it. Orchids 
depend more for sustenance upon the atmosphere and 
moisture, than upon the soil. 



8'] 



AUGUST-— THIRD AND FOURTH WEEK. 



FORCING-HOUSES. 

Peaches. — It is advisable, when practicable, to get the 
lights off the early houses, presuming that the trees are 
fast advancing towards a state of rest. The practice is cer- 
tainly not absolutely indispensable, but it is of much 
benefit to the trees. Whether the lights are off or on, 
attention may now be given to the repairs of glass or 
woodwork where necessary, and to finish with a coat 01 
paint and whitewashing, if possible. 

Pines. — The plants swelling their fruit to be carefully 
looked over in hot weather that they may receive no 
check for want of water. Continue to pot or plant suckers 
as soon as they are taken off the parent plants, as they 
are apt to shrivel much at this season, if left out of the 
ground. Attend to the state of the linings to dung pits, 
as all Pine Dlants, in whatever situation, will require a 
lively bottom heat of 90°. 

Vines. — The houses containing late Grapes to be shut- 
up warm and rather early (about four o'clock), in order 
to dispense, if possible, with fires, giving air by seven 
o'clock in the morning, and increasing it abundantly 
towards noon, and to be then diminished at intervals, in 
accordance with the state of the weather. 



FOTJETH WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The plants in these houses should receive particular 
attention that they do not suffer from want of water or 
fresh potting ; the water to be given in the morning or 
forenoon, that the plants and houses may be dry towards 
night, to prevent the ill effects arising from damps. 

Camellias. — Look over them, and disbud where too 
many are set in a cluster. Eesurface the soil, and see 
that the drainage is efficient. 

New Holland Plants. — Heaths and other such hard- 
wooded plants that have been placed out of doors will 
now do best in a cold pit or frame, where they can be 
protected from heavy rains. 



AUGUST — rOUSTH WEEK. 



37 



Pelaegoniums. — When tlie shoots of the plants that 
have been cut down are about an inch long, the old soil 
must be shaken away, the roots slightly trimmed, and then 
repotted into small pots, &c, as advised early in July. 
Some of the cuttings may now be fit for potting off; 
when potted, to be placed in a pit or frame, kept close, 
and shaded until they have made fresh roots, when they 
should be placed out in an open situation to grow firm 
and stocky, pinching out the leading shoots ; and to be 
placed on coal ashes, slates, or boards, to prevent the 
admission of worms. Sow the seed immediately it is 
gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of any other 
perennial plant, if ripe before the middle of September. 

STOVE AND OBCHXD-HOUSE. 

The stove plants of strong and early growth may be 
allowed a gradual increase of ventilation and more sun- 
light. Plenty of moisture is still essential for the general 
stock. Shading may now be dispensed with, except 
during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given 
to the Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stepha- 
notises, Dipladenias, and other such valuable stove plants. 
The surface soil of large specimens to be stirred, and 
weeds and moss removed. 

Gesneea zebeina. — Shift them for winter flowering ; 
they delight in a mixture composed of equal parts of 
fibrous loam, heath soil, and leaf mould. All plants after 
shifting do best when placed in a gentle bottom heat ; to 
be syringed occasionally, and shaded during bright sun- 
shine. 

Shift on all Obchids that now require it, and are 
making their growth. Top dress others, if they require 
it. All that are growing freely in pots or baskets, or on 
blocks, to be syringed with clear, tepid, soft water in the 
afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up early. 

eobcing-houses. 
_ Figs. — If any are growing against the back wall of a 
vinery, or other such structure, it may be advisable to 
give them a good soaking of water, and but very little, if 
any, after— as a dry atmosphere is necessary to ripen the 
fruit. 



83 AUGUST— F0UE7TI WEE IT. 

Melons. — Continue to supply them with bottom heat. 
If they are growing in pits or frames, keep the linings 
well topped up or renewed, to produce a comfortable heat 
inside ; for without it canker is apt to set in and destroy 
the plants. 

Mushrooms. — In making beds for these on shelves, or 
in boxes, as recommended a fortnight ago, or on the 
floor, let the whole mass be made very firm by well- 
beating it as it is put on in layers. It is advisable when 
the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong, fresh 
loam at least from two to three inches thick, and to make 
it as firm as possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger 
and of much better quality than if partly-exhausted soil 
is used. 

Pines. — If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, 
supply them occasionally with clear liquid manure when 
they want water. The growth of the crown to be checked, 
and all useless suckers, gills, &c, to be removed. When 
a house or pit is devoted to late Pines alone, an abundance 
of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance of air 
to the young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness 
of the atmosphere, to induce maturity of growth and a 
hardy constitution against winter. Shift, if not already 
done, succession plants into larger pots. Any plants 
recently potted to be shaded during bright sunshine, 
sprinkled overhead every afternoon, and the house closed 
early. The sprinkling will be sufficient without watering 
at the root until the plants begin to grow. 

Vineries. — Continue to secure a dry state of the atmo- 
sphere when the ripe fruit is intended to hang for any 
length of time, using a little fire heat when necessary to 
dispel damp. To ripen the fruit in late vineries, it is 
frequently necessary to use fire heat, but more especially 
when the external temperature ranges below 50°. 



SEPTEMBEB— FIB8T WEEK. 



89 



SEPTEMBER. 

JFIEST WEEK. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Balsams. — Give them a good watering when they 
show indications of drooping ; but be cautious in water- 
ing when the least stagnation appears, as saturation will 
be death to them. 

Bulbs. — Pot Hyacinths and other such bulbs for 
forcing. When potted, to be placed in a dry, cool situa- 
tion, as advised in the early part of the month, and 
covered with some porous material — such as coal ashes, 
old spent tanner's bark, coarse sand, or any other material 
that will serve to keep the roots not only cool and un- 
acted on by atmospheric changes, but which, from being 
moderately damp, will not abstract moisture from the 
roots, but keep them uniformly and evenly moistened. 
The Cape bulbs, if obtained now, may be had in flower 
at various periods throughout the winter and early spring. 
Amaryllis Johnsoni, vittata, and many other varieties, are 
splendid. Ornithogalum, both the white and orange- 
flowered species, the free-growing species of Ixia, and 
the varieties of Sparaxis tricolor, are desirable plants 
that may be easily bloomed by gentle forcing. 

Calceolarias (Herbaceous). — Pot off seedlings into 
small pots, and keep them close in a frame for some days. 
Put in cuttings of the best kinds ; they will strike readily 
in a common frame. 

Chrysanthemums. — They should now be stopped for 
the last time, to produce a late succession of bloom. 

Climbers. — Be careful to train the shoots, that the 
trellis or stakes may be furnished and clothed with 
foliage and flowers from the rim of the pot upwards. 

Fuchsias. — To have a late bloom, cut back about half 
of the young wood, trimming the plants to handsome 



90 



SEPTEMBER — FIBST WEEK. 



shapes. If placed or plunged in a little bottom heat they 
will break again, and continue blooming till Christmas. 

Lilium lancifolium. — Supply them cautiously with 
water, as advised for Balsams, and shade the flowers from 
bright sunshine, to prolong their beauty. When they 
have done blooming, to be removed to the foot of a south 
wall or fence to ripen their growth. Water to be given 
sparingly until their tops show signs of decay, when they 
may be laid on their sides till potting time. The same 
treatment is recommended for Gladioli and plants of 
like habit. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Some judgment will now be necessary to arrange the 
plants that are finishing or have completed their season's 
growth in the coolest part of the house, where they 
should be freely supplied with air, and rather cautiously 
and sparingly with water. While others in free growth 
should be encouraged with warmth and moisture by 
giving but very little air and a liberal supply of water 
during very fine sunshiny weather. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

When the fruit in the early houses is gathered, the 
great object should be to ripen the wood. A certain 
degree of attention is necessary to be given by exposing 
them to light and air, and preserving the leaves from 
injury, as it is upon their healthy action that the future 
crop depends. 

Cherries. — Trees in tubs, or large pots, if intended for 
early forcing, to be removed to a cool, and plunged in an 
open airy, situation, to continue the regular root action, 
upon which much of their future success will depend. 

Figs.— Withhold water from the borders where the 
second crop of fruit is ripening. Trees in tubs, or large 
pots, intended for early forcing, to be treated as advised 
for Cherries. 

Peaches. — If mildew attack the trees before the 
leaves have performed their necessary functions, dust the 
affected shoots with sulphur. Trees in pots to be treated 
as recommended for Cherries. 

Pines. — Take advantage of fine weather to encourage 



SEPTEMBEE — EIEST AND SECOND WEEK. 91 



free growth where it is desirable. Plants swelling their 
fruit .to be supplied occasionally with clear liquid manure. 
The succession plants to be supplied with water at the 
roots, as inattention to that particular during hot weather 
is very likely to cause some of the plants to fruit prema- 
turely. 

Steaweeeeies. — The stock intended for forcing to be 
carefully attended to ; to be kept free from runners and 
weeds ; and, when necessary, to be liberally watered. 
Free exposure to sun and air, and a little weak liquid 
manure, will assist to produce stout healthy plants for 
forcing. 

Vines. — When the fruit is ripe, give air freely, and 
keep the house as cool and dry as possible. Stop laterals 
in the late houses, and expose the foliage to light, to 
make it as healthy and vigorous as possible. Vines in 
pots to be treated as advised for Cherries. 



SECOND WEEK. 

greenhouse and conservatory. 
As boisterous winds, heavy rains, and other atmospheric 
changes occur about this time, it is advisable to draft 
the choicest out-door greenhouse plants to their winter 
quarters. Each plant to be carefully examined, dead 
leaves removed, and any defects in the soil or drainage 
of the pots to be remedied. If worm-casts, or other 
indications of the presence of worms, appear on the sur- 
face of the soil, by carefully turning the ball of soil out 
of the pot they can generally be picked out. If they 
are not visible on the outside of the ball, a small 
peg stuck in will direct particular attention to it until 
the intruder is removed. When staging the plants, a 
pleasing variety may be introduced by placing a few on 
inverted pots. Sufficient space to be given to each plant 
to allow the air to circulate freely around. If there is 
not sufficient room for all, the oldest or mis-shapen plants 
may be rejected, or wintered in a pit or vinery. When 



92 



SEPTEMBEE — SECOND WEEK. 



housed, all the air possible should be given in fine weather 
by the entire withdrawal of the lights, and only reducing 
the ventilation when unfavourable changes in the weather 
take place. 

Heliotropes. — Pay attention to keep them in a grow- 
ing, healthy state for winter flowering. 

Mignonette. — Sow now and a month hence, for winter 
and spring blooming. 

Pinks. — Pot Anne JDoleyne and other sorts, to be well 
established before they are wanted for forcing. 

Roses. — Some of the Tea-scented and China kinds, 
being placed under glass, and to be repotted if requisite, 
will promote immediate growth and early blooming. 

Violets. — Take up with good balls, to be potted in 
rotten turf, or leaf mould and road-scrapings, in 48 or 
32-sized pots, placed in a pit or frame near the glass, for 
flowers in the winter and early spring. 

stove and obchid-house. 
As the season of active growth is now getting to a close, 
it is advisable to ripen off gradually the pseudo-bulbs and 
strong healthy shoots by keeping up a genial atmosphere, 
ranging from 70° to 80°, with abundance of air in favour- 
able weather. Cattleyas, Epidendrum Skinneri, La;lias, 
Lycaste Skinneri, and Odontoglossum grande, to be kept 
rather cool, and to be slightly syringed occasionally. 
Water to be given more sparingly to all the plants except 
such as are growing freely. Shading to be now dispensed 
with as much as possible, that the plants may have the 
benefit of the ripening influence of the sun. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Figs. — Continue to pay strict attention to the state of 
the atmosphere. Where the fruit is still swelling and 
ripening, slight fires will be useful in dull, cold weather, 
to assist in ripening the fruit ; and but little syringing 
and watering will be required from this time forward. 

Melons. — Take advantage of fine weather by giving 
plenty of air, shutting up early, and keeping the shoots 
regularly thinned. In whatever structure they may be 
growing, it is advisable to keep up the bottom heat by a 
gentle fire, or by linings. 



SEPTEMBER — SECOND AND THIED WEEK. 



93 



Peaches. — We will suppose the trees to be now fully 
exposed to the air night and day, and will, therefore, 
require but little attention, except an occasional washing 
with the engine, to remove insects and to allow the 
foliage to perform its functions to a natural decay. If a 
blank in the house is to be filled up, it may be done as 
soon as the crop is gathered from the open wall ; and the 
crop to be expected from the same tree next season will 
depend upon the care with which it is removed, as there 
will be sufficient time for the wood to be ripened and the 
tree to make fresh roots, and to get sufficiently established 
before winter. 

Pines. — "Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, 
care to be taken by giving air freely in favourable 
weather, to avoid growing the plants weakly in a close 
and warm temperature, and by a sufficient command of 
heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given at 
night and on cloudy days. 

Vines. — All long growths, whether bearing or not, to 
be stopped, as it is getting too late for them to be bene- 
fited by the foliage made after this period of the year. 
A gentle fire in damp weather is useful to keep the 
atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The bunches to 
be frequently and carefully looked over and all tainted 
berries removed, and the foliage kept free from insects. 
Fire heat is also necessary where the fruit is not yet ripe, 
and where the fruit is cut it is sometimes necessary to 
keep the atmosphere dry and rather warm, to ripen the 
wood. 



THIRD WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE and conservatory. 
Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them 
as much air as possible ; for if air is too sparingly ad- 
mitted at this season, when many of the plants have not 
finished their growth, it will cause them to produce weak 
and tender shoots, which will be very liable to damp off' 
at a more advanced period when the inclemency of the 



SEPTEMBER — THIRD WEEK". 



external air will cause them to be kept close. Water to be 
liberally supplied when they are first taken into the house, 
as the dry boards on which they may stand, or the 
elevated situation and free circulation of air will occa- 
sion a more frequent want of that element than when 
they stood on the moist earth. However, by no means go 
to the extreme, but give it only when evidently necessary. 

Azaleas. — Plants that have set their blooms to be 
removed to the greenhouse ; but the late kinds to remain 
in heat until their growth is matured and the bloom set. 
If a few are required to bloom at Christmas, or a little 
after, they should be kept in heat until the bloom-buds 
have swelled to a good size, when they will require but 
very little forcing to start them into bloom. 

Bulbs. — Procure and pot them as soon as possible, 
as much of the success of early forcing depends upon 
early potting. 

Camellias.— Treat them as advised for Azaleas. 

Heaths. — Look sharply after mildew, as plants that 
have been growing freely in a shady situation in the open 
air, and are in a rather succulent state when taken in- 
doors, are liable to be attacked by this pest, which should 
be removed on its first appearance by an application of 
sulphur. 

stove and orchid-house. 

Commence a gradual reduction of the temperature in 
correspondence with the decline of external heat; by 
such means the plants will be better prepared to with- 
stand the gloom and other vicissitudes of the winter season. 

Begonias. — Encourage the different kinds for winter 
flowering by shifting them, if necessary, into larger pots. 
They succeed best in a compost of half leaf mould and 
half loam. They grow luxuriantly in a soil composed 
entirely of decayed vegetable matter ; but in that they 
are liable to rot off at the base of the stem. 

forcing-houses. 

Figs. — Trees in tubs or pots still bearing to be assisted 
with a little liquid manure when dry. Withhold water 
gradually from the borders, to induce an early, but not a 
too premature, ripeness of the wood and an early rest. 

Peaches. — The flues of the early house may now be 



SEPTEMBER— THIRD AND FOURTH WEEK. 95 



cleaned, and, if not yet done, the lights washed and 
painted, if necessary. 

Pines. — If there are some of the spring fruiting plants 
still remaining in the fruiting-house, they should either 
be placed at one end of the pit, or removed to a small 
house by themselves ; the house should then be prepared 
for the best of the succession plants for the second crop 
next summer. Plants showing fruit after this time, 
although they cannot be expected to produce as fine fruit 
as if earlier in the season, will, nevertheless, be found 
very useful, and should have every attention given to 
them while the season continues favourable. To be 
placed in the warmest corner of the house, and to be 
supplied when dry with a little liquid manure. Continue 
to grow on the young stock while the weather continues 
favourable ; for fine sunny days and moist growing nights 
are all that we can desire. A good portion of solar heat 
to be secured by shutting up early. On cold nights 
gentle fires will be necessary to keep up the temperature 
to 70° towards morning. 

Vines. — The Yines that are to be forced early, if the 
wood is well ripened and all the leaves nearly off, may be 
pruned without much fear of bleeding, keeping the house 
as cool as possible ; but if, from appearances, the sap is 
not considered to be sufficiently at rest, the pruning 
should be postponed. Continue to forward the Grapes 
not yet ripe by giving a little fire heat during the day. 
Air to be given to the house as soon as the sun shines 
upon it, as the vapour that ascends, if not allowed to pass 
off by ventilation, will cause the Grapes to become mouldy 
and worthless. 



FOURTH WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The plants that have been in the open borders during 
the summer to be taken up, the roots carefully cut back, 
and repotted ; to be placed in a gentle bottom heat, or in 
some close place, until they have made fresh roots, the 



96 



SEPTEMBER — FOURTH WEEK. 



better to resist the vicissitudes of the dull, dreary months 
of the approaching winter. 

American Plants. — If a rich display of bloom is 
desired in early spring, the plants should be now potted 
in rather small pots, to be plunged in the warmest part 
of the garden, and introduced to the forcing-house from 
November until February, as they may be required. 
The most suitable for such a purpose are the Azaleas of 
the nudijlora class with various hybrids, Andromeda 
'pulverulent a, Daphne cneorum, Kalmias, of sorts, Ledum 
Jatifolmm and L. thymifolium, Polygala Chamcebuxus, 
Rhododendrons, and Bhodora Canadense. 

Calceolarias (Herbaceous). — Remove them to a shelf 
as near the glass as possible, with plenty of air at all 
favourable opportunities. To be duly supplied with water. 

Camellias. — Water to be given carefully, to prevent 
the dropping of the buds. The late-flowering plants to be 
thinned of their buds, leaving not more than two buds on 
each shoot, and retaining the largest and smallest to get 
a long succession of bloom. The leaves, if necessary, to 
be washed clean. 

Chinese Primroses. — Place them as advised for 
Calceolarias. 

Cinerarias. — Protect them from the ravages of green 
fly by the application of the Grishurst infallible compound. 

Fuchsias. — Continue to encourage the late stock for 
bloom. Seeds may be sown at once, where there is a 
greenhouse or other means of sheltering them from frost 
and damp ; but if you have no such convenience, it is 
advisable to postpone the sowing until spring. The seed 
is separated most easily from the pulp by bruising the 
berries amongst dry sand, and allowing it to stand in the 
sun, or in a warm place, until the moisture has evaporated, 
when the seed and sand will be intermixed, and in a fit 
state to be sown. 

Heaths. — On fine mornings syringe them,andEpacrises 
and Pimeleas, and give all possible ventilation, both night 
and day, while the weather continues favourable. 

New Holland Plants. — Place them in situations to 
enjoy a considerable share of air and light. All luxuriant 
shoots to be stopped, to maintain symmetry and uni- 
formity of growth. A vigilant eye should be kept upon 



SEFTEilBEE — FOURTH WEEK. 



97 



them almost daily, to see that neither mildew, green fly, 
nor other such enemies be allowed to injure them. 

Orange Trees. — If they have been standing out during 
the summer, the sooner they are returned to their winter 
quarters the better. Clean the leaves, if necessary, and 
fresh surface the soil in which they are growing. 

Succulents. — Cacti, Euphorbige, and other such plants 
to be gradually curtailed in the supply of water as they 
approach the winter and their season of rest. 

Tkop.£Oluhs. — If any of this beautiful tribe, particu- 
larly T. iricolorum or T. Brachyseras that have flowered 
early in the season, begin to grow, they should not be 
checked, but allowed to grow slowly through the winter ; 
but if there is no appearance of growth — which is best for 
their future success — the roots should be kept dormant, 
in a cool place, with the soil about them quite dry, and 
protected from mice. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Stove plants cannot be too cautiously watered late in 
the autumn. ]N"othing is now wanted but to keep the 
soil from getting quite dry. Slight fires to be made in 
the forenoons of dull and rainy days, not so much for the 
purpose of raising the temperature as for drying the 
house. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities, 
to maintain a healthy atmosphere. Several of the 
Orchids — viz., Aerides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, 
Vandas, &c, may be encouraged by the application of a 
high temperature, with much moisture and less shading, 
to make further and sometimes considerable growth. 

Cattleyas. — Young plants may also be encouraged to 
grow for some time longer ; but older specimens should 
be reduced to a comparatively dormant state by a gradual 
diminution in the supply of water, and a decrease in 
temperature, with less shading. 

Stanhopeas. — To be treated as advised for Cattleyas. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and 
prepare fresh material for succession al ones. To ensure 
success it is advisable never to allow the manure to be 
put together in a dry state, nor to get too far exhausted, 

H 



98 



SEPTEMBER — FOTJSTH WEEK. 



but in that medium state when the strong fermentation 
has passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain in 
it for some time. The temperature to be kept from Q0° to 
65°, with the admission of air for several hours daily. 

Cheeeies. — Whether they are in pots or in borders, 
and have arrived at, or are only approaching, a compa- 
tively dormant state when but little attention will be 
necessary, still that little will be required to keep them 
clear of insects and of the leaves as they become suf- 
ficiently ripe, when they come readily off with a touch. 
The old surface of the soil of those grown in pots to be 
removed, and the same quantity of fresh, in a rough state, 
put in its place. Kemove them without further delay, if 
not already done, as advised in the early part of the 
month, to the north side of a wall or hedge until wanted ; 
or if not wanted until a sharp frost sets in, they should 
be protected from its icy grasp. 

Figs. — Trees in pots to be treated as advised for 
Cherries. 

Melons. — Although the weather may have been 
favourable for ripening the late fruit, they will in some 
places still require the assistance of a good top and 
bottom heat, and a large portion of air in the middle of 
the day. 

Peaches. — Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as 
recommended for Cherries. I^o time should be lost if 
fresh trees are to be planted in the place of any that may 
be worn out. The choice should be made of young trees 
that are in a bearing state, and all the better if they had 
been moved last autumn. In pruning the trees, after 
the leaves have dropped, be sure not to leave them too 
crowded ; but if the summer pruning, as frequently ad- 
vised, have been properly done, but very little, if any, will 
be required now. To remove the leaves from the trees 
in the early houses it is advisable to shake them daily, and 
sometimes to brush them gently with a few pieces of 
birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright shoots to be 
removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from 
insects. 

Pines. — Persevere in former directions as to general 
routine management. Whilst fine weather continues air 
may be given liberally ; and shut up earlier in the after- 



SEPTEMBES — FOURTH WEEK. 



99 



noon to secure as much sun heat as possible. Plants 
swelling their fruit to be assisted with a brisk tempera- 
ture, both at top and bottom, from 65° to 70° at night, 
allowing it to rise to 80° on sunny days with a steady 
bottom heat of about 80°. When watering is necessary 
let it be given in sufficient quantity to moisten the whole 
of the soil. The suckers and crowns that were potted 
in the summer months should now be shifted, if they 
have grown freely : they should then be plunged in a 
brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or pit, from 
which the plants have been removed, to the fruiting- 
house. Any remaining suckers on the old stools to be 
taken off, potted, and plunged in a brisk heat in the 
nursing pit. 

Vines. — The early house, or the first lot of Yines in 
pots, if it is intended to start them in November or De- 
cember, to be pruned, that sufficient time may be allowed 
to heal up the wounds, and the buds to become more 
plump and prominent. The border of the early house to 
be thatched with straw, or covered with any other such 
material, to protect it from heavy rains. It is also ad- 
visable in some situations to cover the borders of the 
houses in which it is intended to keep Grapes late, to 
prevent the soil getting saturated about the roots. Con- 
tinue to look over ripe fruit, cutting out the mouldy or 
tainted berries ; applying gentle fires only when necessary 
to expel damps, with a free circulation of air — as a warm, 
close atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the 
long-rod system is adopted, the old shoots should be cut 
down as soon as the fruit is gathered; and, whatever 
system is adopted, if there are any shoots to remove 
they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared ; 
the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. 
Continue to pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over 
them daily, and cut out every decayed berry. 



100 



OCTOBER — IlEST WEEK, 



OCTOBER. 

FIE S T WEEK, 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

The plants when newly set in the honse are very liable 
to lose a portion of their leaves : these should be removed, 
and the plants kept supplied with water, so as to pre- 
serve the soil moderately moist throughout. Air to be 
given every day, and also a portion at night, if the weather 
continue mild. 

Bulbs (Dutch). — All kinds to be immediately potted 
and plunged in a convenient situation ready to be re- 
moved, when wanted, to the forcing-house or pit. If 
potted and treated as advised some time ago, a few of them 
may now be excited into growth. 

Chrysanthemums. — Take up the plants from the open 
ground; choose a showery day for the purpose. After 
potting to be well watered and shaded for a few days, 
then placed in a cold pit, or removed to the greenhouse, 
and neatly tied to stakes. The buds to be thinned for a 
fine display. 

Gladioli. — Pot them, and Ixias, Sparaxis, &c. ; and to 
be watered sparingly until they begin to grow. 

Lily of the Valley. — Pot some, to be treated as 
advised for Bulbs, that a regular supply of this favourite 
flower may be had during winter. 

Shrubs. — G-et in, if not already done. A supply of 
American plants to be potted, as advised a fortnight ago, 
and plunged in old tan until wanted for forcing, 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Continue to act in unison with the season, allowing 
the temperature to decline slightly as light decreases. 
Although the Aerides, Dendrobiums, &c, will continue to 
enjoy a temperature of 80° by day and 70° by night, the 



OCTOBES — ?IEST WEEK. 



101 



Cattleyas will require 10° or 15° less to bring them to a 
healthy state of rest ; for if kept in constant excitement 
they will continue to sprout buds from their pseudo- 
bulbs, which generally adds to the size of the plant at the 
expense of the blooms. 

Achimenes picta. — Promote their growth by every 
attention, also Gesnera zebrina, which adds much to the 
beauty of the stove during winter. 

Begonias. — Encourage the different kinds for winter 
flowering by giving them larger pots if required. 

Euphorbia eulgens and splendens.— These are also 
worthy of especial attention, as they contribute to enliven 
the house at the dullest season of the year when flowers 
are scarce. 

FORCING-HOUSES, 

Cucumbers. — To prolong the season of fine crisp fruit 
it is necessary to keep the plants clean and healthy by 
giving them plenty of top and bottom heat. 

Pigs. — The trees having no fruit likely to come to 
perfection, and whose leaves are fading, to be kept cool 
and dry, to induce an early rest. A seasonal rest should 
also be given by the same means to trees in pots, that 
they may be in a fit state for forcing early. 

Melons. — Continue to maintain a warm, dry atmo- 
sphere, to give flavour to the fruit. They will require 
little or no water after this. 

Peaches. — Vacancies to be filled with trees from the 
walls on the open ground. This is a plan preferable to 
having young trees from the nursery, which are usually 
some years m covering the space allotted to them. Where 
the lights have been wholly removed, after being re- 
paired and painted, they should be put upon the houses 
to protect the trees and borders from unfavourable 
weather. 

Pines. — Bipening fruit to be kept in a dry, warm 
atmosphere, to give it flavour. The swelling fruit to have 
a warm, moist atmosphere. Water to be given to the 
plants cautiously ; every one to be examined before it 
receives any, and manure water to be dispensed with 
altogether. The heat of the dung-pits to be kept up by 
renewing the linings. The crowns and suckers that are 



Hi Q@2Q%%m— WlSSfX A3?© SSCOH® WEEK. 

planted in the tan to Iiave no water ; all they require is 
attention in giving air and keeping up*the heat. 

Vines. — Attention to be given to the yonng Vines in 
pots that are intended for forcing, that they may not 
become soddened, which would injure the yonng roots 
considerably. Where netting or any other such material 
had been fixed over the lights that open in houses con- 
taining fruit, to prevent the ingress of wasps, it may be 
taken down as little mischief will now be apprehended 
from their attacks. Mice are sometimes very trouble- 
some in vineries at this season, and will spoil a whole 
house of Grapes in a short time if not prevented. Traps 
should, therefore, be kept set, and every means used to 
prevent their ingress from the garden. Cover the border 
when the trees are planted outside, with a good coat of 
fern or any other such material before they become satu- 
rated and chilled by the autumnal rains, to be laid on 
thickly in layers, beginning at the front of the border, 
the whole to be covered with a thin layer of good straw, 
and fastened down as a- thatcher does the slsaw on stacks. 



SSCOIB ¥SE£ 



©SSHifHOUSE AHD COFSEKVATOSY. 

The plants being cleaned, surfaced, staked, and ar- 
ranged, they will require but little beyond the ordinary 
attentions of watering and regulating the admission of 
air. Plants, when fresh surfaced, sometimes droop with- 
out any apparent cause, which generally arises from the 
roots being very dry ; the fresh soil absorbing most of 
the moisture, and the water escaping between the pot 
and ball of earth. This is usually brought on by surfacing 
the plants when dry : as soon, therefore, as the conse- 
quences are observed, the plants should be examined, 
and sufficient water given to wet the bail of earth 
thoroughly. 

Chrysanthemums. — Treat them without further delay 
as advised in a late Calendar. An occasional and mode- 



OCTOSES— SBCOND WEEK. 



103 



rate supply of clear liquid manure will assist to develope 
their flowers to greater perfection. If any indication of 
mildew appear an application of the flowers of sulphur, 
when the foliage is damp, will banish it. 

Fuchsias. — Encourage the young stock to continue 
their blooming by the application of a little weak liquid 
manure. When the flowering is over, and they have lost 
most of their leaves, they may then be set aside in any 
corner free from frost for the winter. To be kept mode- 
rately dry. 

Myrtles. — These and other such evergreen plants 
requiring protection to be placed in pits or frames, or in 
any other structure, as near the glass as possible. To be 
watered regularly ; but, like all other plants, care must 
be taken that they do not get too much at any time 
during the winter. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

The plants that have taken their rest should be shaken 
out, and repotted ; pruning back such as require it, and 
placing them m a gentle bottom heat. The Orchids 
showing bloom — such as the Cypripediums, Jphajus 
grandifolius and StenorJiynchus sjoeeiosus — to be supplied 
with plenty of heat and moisture. Some of the other 
sorts — such as the Catasetums, the Cycnoches, Lycastes, 
&c, that are approaching their dormant state — to be 
accommodated, if possible, with a drier and cooler atmo- 
sphere. All fast-growing plants — such as Clerodendrums, 
Vincas, &c. — that require large pots in summer, to be 
now turned out of their pots, the soil to be shaken from 
them, and repotted into the smallest sized pots that will con- 
tain them, without pruning the roots much at this time. 

Climbers. — Some of the most rambling will now want 
some pruning, more especially where they obstruct the 
light in any material degree. The Combretums, Echites, 
Tpomssas, Mandevillas, late-blooming Passifloras, Pergu- 
larias, Stephanotises, Thunbergias, &c, which are still 
growing, to be regulated with a more gentle hand, cutting 
out but little more than barren shoots, and drawing the 
remainder into somewhat closer festoons, to allow the 
more free admission of sunlight into the interior of the 
house. 



104 



OCTOBER — SECOND AND THIRD WEEK. 



EOBCIN&-HOTJ8ES. 

Cucumbees. — The plants for a winter supply of fruit 
should now be making progress. Keep the vines thin 
and use every means to keep up a good heat, with liberal 
admissions of air at all favourable opportunities, to get 
them strong and vigorous against the winter months. 
Stop mildew by dusting the leaves with sulphur. 

Mushrooms. — Succession-beds to be made according 
to previous directions. Give a good sprinkling to those 
in bearing, to produce a genial humidity ; and turn the 
covering material occasionally, to keep them sweet and 
free from mouldiness. 

Peaches. — "When the trees in the early house are 
pruned, it is advisable to cove? the cuts, when dry, with 
white lead, to prevent the admission of air and water 
to the wound. Wash the trellis, whitewash the flues 
and walls, and make every part of the house clean. 
Dress the trees with a mixture of soft soap and sul- 
phur in hot water ; to be well rubbed in with a brush 
or sponge. 

Vines. — Continue to look over the ripe Grapes, cutting 
out any decaying berries. If the fruit is to be kept for 
any length of time, and if any plants, through want of 
other accommodation, must be kept under the Vines, 
they should be watered in the morning, using a little 
fire heat in the day, with air, to expel damp before night. 
Whatever system of pruning is adopted, whether the 
long-rod or spur, it is advisable, when the brown scale is 
visible, to take off the loose bark, to wash them, and the 
wires and rafters, with soft soap dissolved in hot water, 
using a hard brush, being careful not to injure the buds ; 
afterwards to apply hot lime, made to the consistency of 
thick paint. 



THIRD WEEK. T 

GBEENHOFSE AND CONSEBVATOBY. 

The decline of temperature and less watering must go 
on progressively, more especially in dull weather, with 



OCTOB1E — THIBB WEEK. 



free ventilation at all favourable opportunities. If the 
weather be cold, use a little fire-heat occasionally during 
the day, especially where there are many plants in bloom, 
that ventilation may be given to expel damp and stagnant 
air. 

Cxneraeias. — Plants that have filled their small pots 
with roots to be shifted, according to their size and 
strength, into larger pots. The compost to be one part 
turfy loam, one part peat or leaf mould, and one part 
rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and 
will thrive tolerably well in a cold pit, protected from 
frost during the, winter. They should be placed on a dry 
bottom of coal ashes, and kept as near to the glass as 
possible. 

Heaths. — They may, if there is no room for them in 
the greenhouse, be kept in a cold pit, or frame, during 
the winter. Water to be given carefully on the forenoon 
of a fine day. Frost to be excluded by mats, or other 
covering ; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy by 
free exposure to bear a few degrees of frost without 
injury if they are shaded from the sun's rays until 
gradually thawed. 

Mignonette. — Sow, to come into bloom about the end 
of February. The soil to be rich, light, and the pots to 
have a good supply of crocks at the bottom, as the suc- 
cess of growing this favourite plant through the winter 
will depend in a great measure upon the drainage and 
keeping the plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those 
who have a hotbed frame will find it useful to start the 
seeds by moderate heat. Others who have no such con- 
venience may place their pots in a cold frame in a shel- 
tered situation, and upon a floor of rough stones over- 
laid with ashes. 

Pelargoniums. — The more dormant they can be kept 
during the winter the better. Therefore, only a very 
moderate supply of water should be given to keep them 
from flagging, and a liberal supply of air at all favourable 
opportunities. 

Yeebenas. — To be placed on swing or other shelves 
as near to the glass as possible. They require plenty of 
air, the extirpation of green fly, and a moderate supply 
of water to preserve them in a healthy condition. 



WB — THISB i^S WEEK* 

STOVE AND OKCHID-HOUSE. 

Feens. — Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A con- 
venient sized pot to be filled with sandy peat, finishing 
with a few rough lumpy pieces to form an uneven sur- 
face. The seeds to be shaken over the tops and sides of 
these pieces of soil, by which there is more probability of 
some of them vegetating than if they had been sown on 
a level surface where the whole of the seed would be 
subjected to the same kind of treatment, which might 
with ordinary care be either too wet or too dry. The 
pot to be set in a sauce? that contains a little water, 
which will feed the whole mass with sufficient moisture 
without a drop being required on the surface of the pot. 
The seedlings succeed best in a cool part of the stove 
where evaporation can be most effectually prevented : 
but they do not like to be continually kept close under a 
bell-glass. 

FQECIN&-H0U3ES. 

Cucumbees. — Top dress the plants in pots or boxes 
with leaf mould, supplying those that are rooting freely 
with an abundance of atmospheric moisture, and free 
circulation of air, stopping at every second joint, and 
setting the fruit as the blossom expands. 

Steawbeeeies. — It is usual, when the stock of plants 
in pots is large, to lay them on their sides on the south 
side of a wall or fence, packed in dry coal ashes s and 
topped with boards, or any other such covering, to pro- 
tect them from heavy falls of rain until they are wanted 
for forcing. 



FOUETH WEEK. 

geeenhouse and conseevatoby. 
As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, 
and as fogs occur about this time, it is essential to apply 
a little fire-heat during the day, to expel damps, and to 
cause a desirable activity in the circulation of the air. 
Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead leaves, and the 
destruction of insects. 



Bulss. — Pot HyacintliS; Narcissi, Tulips, &c, to 
flower late in the spring ; also the Ixias and Gladioli, 
and various other Iridese ; and also Oxalis, Laclienalia, 
&c. They delight in light open soil composed of peat, 
loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an addition to, 
or substitute for, the peat. 

Cineeaeias. — Give the final shift to the plants in- 
tended to flower as specimens in early spring. 

Chrysanthemums to be treated with manure water 
occasionally. All suckers and spindly shoots to be re- 
moved, and the flowers to be thinned. 

Pelaegoniums. — A little fire-heat by day, with plenty 
of air 9 will be of service to drive off the damp and stag- 
nant atmosphere caused by heavy rains. Watering, 
if necessary, to be given in the morning ; the principal 
shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly and 
useless ones removed ; to be placed near the glass, to 
encourage a sturdy, short-jointed growth. Two ounces 
of the Gishurst compound, dissolved in one gallon of soft 
water, will speedily banish the green fly. 

FOECING-HOUSES. 

Cucumbees. — Keep them tied in as they grow ; stop 
the side-shoots at the second joint ; allow the leader to 
grow to the required length before stopping it ; and pinch 
off the young fruit if you think they are not sufficiently 
strong to carry a crop. 

Peaches. — Prune and dress the trees as soon as they 
lose their leaves. If the lights are still off any of the 
early houses the sooner they are put on the better. An 
abundance of air to be given. 

Pines. — The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants 
to range from 80° to 65° at night, with an increase during 
the day in accordance with the state of the weather, 
whether bright and sunny, or rainy, foggy, or frosty ; 
and the succession plants a few degrees less. Humidity 
to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to 
produce weak and immature growth. The bark-beds of 
strong succession plants that are required to start into 
fruit early, to be renewed by having a small quantity 
added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated by dung 
will require covering with mats at night : when covered 



103 ©©fOBlB— ^OUBTH WEEK. 

let eve?^ other light be slightly raised, to allow the steam 
to pass off. When the covering is off it will escape 
through the laps of the glass. Take advantage of all op- 
portunities for giving a little air. If it can be done every 
day, so much the better for the health of the plants. 

Vines. — The Vines in late houses that will not require 
to be pruned for some time should have the tops or other 
portions of the immature wood cut_off, to give strength 
and plumpness to the back eyes, If the houses are dry* 
kept free from drip, and the scissors employed amongst 
decaying berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a 
good condition for holding on for a long time. 



290VEMRER — FIRST WEEK. 



109 



NOVEMBER. 

FIE ST WEEK. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights 
have arrived, it is necessary to keep all plants that have 
finished their growth free from excitement, and rather 
dry at their roots. A gentle fire to be applied during 
the day, which w?ll allow the advantage of a free circu- 
lation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the after- 
noon, will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments 
of ordinary frosts during the night. But if the frost 
should set in severely, night coverings, if possible, should 
be applied in preference to fire-heat. 

American Plants, &c. — Pot, if not done, Rhododen- 
drons, Kalmias, hardy Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and 
other plants usually required for winter forcing. 

Chrysanthemums. — They will require an abundance 
of air to prevent the flowers expanding weakly. Keep 
them well supplied with water, and the leaves in a healthy 
state ; for a great portion of their beauty depends upon 
so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost entirely 
denuded of leaves when in flower, which considerably 
detracts from what should be their ornamental appear- 
ance in the greenhouse or conservatory. 

Primroses (Chinese). — Give a few of the strongest and 
most forward a shift into larger pots. The double varie- 
ties are very useful for cutting where bouquets are much 
in request, as they do not drop the flowers like the single 
varieties. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Great caution will now be necessary in the application 
of atmospheric heat and humidity, as an excess of either 
will cause a premature and unseasonable growth which 
no after-care could thoroughly rectify. The thermometer 



HQ 



3$732ES2S-»?£BSf 



for the majority of stove plants need not at any time of 
the day exceed 60°, with a fall of 8° or 10° during the 
night. 

Begonias. — They deserve a place in every stove, as 
they are plants of easy cultivation, and bloom at a season 
when flowers are scaree ; they can also be introduced to 
the conservatory or sitting-room when in bloom. 

FOKCING-HOUSES. 

Hotbeds. — Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding 
leaves and dung to the linings ; but not sufficient of the 
latter to cause a rank steam in the frames. 

Peaches. — If any vacancies occur in the late houses 
they should now be filled up. We have before recom- 
mended trees of large size to be taken from the walls for 
this purpose, but in so doing care should be taken to 
select such sorts as the Murray, Elruge, and Violette 
ilative Nectarines ; Noblesse, Royal George, Grosse Mig^ 
nonne, and Chancellor Peaches, being the best adapted for* 
forcing. Some sorts are of little value as forced fruit, 
although they may bear abundantly. 

Pines. — Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat 
as possible, to keep up the required heat during the 
night. The heat of the spring-fruiting and succession- 
houses to be gradually decreased, so that it may range 
from 60° to 65°. The winter-fruiting plants to range 
10° higher. 

Vines. — The Grapes will require unremitting attention 
to keep the house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. 
It will, we suppose, be generally observed that the fruit 
that was ripe before wet weather sets in will keep 
better than the more backward ones, which may be a 
useful hint " to make hay while the sun shines," or, in 
other words, to ripen the fruit in good time. Prune 
and dress the Yines in the succession-houses as recom- 
mended for the early ones. When Yines have been 
taken out of the house they should be protected from 
the vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes 
greatly injured by being exposed to excessive wet and 
severe frosts. 



NOVEMBER — SECOIf3> WEES. 



Ill 



SECOND WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not 
in currents ; shut up early ; use water sparingly, and 
always tepid — giving little or none to succulents and plants 
in a state of rest. 

Flowers. — Where there is a pit at liberty it may now 
be prepared for forcing flowers. The glass must be 
thoroughly cleaned, as light is of importance at this 
season. The tree leaves when gathered to be mixed 
with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early 
action, and about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed 
over them in which to plunge the pots. The plants, if 
in proper condition, may be introduced immediately — viz. 
Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs, Gardenias, Moss and 
Provence Roses, [Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, Honey- 
suckles, &c. The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other 
bulbs that have been potted early, as advised in due 
season, may be introduced successively in small quantities 
when the buds are an inch or two long, plunging them 
in any out-of-the-way part of the pit, covering them for 
a time with four or five inches of old tan. 

Heaths and New Holland Plants. — Water them 
sparingly. Dry the atmosphere if necessary by lighting 
a slight fire on fine days. Give air freely. 

Pelargoniums. — Shift and tie out as they may require. 
A few of the most forward may be accelerated by a little 
heat. 

Primroses (Chinese). — Water with caution. Two or 
three small pegs to be stuck into the soil around each, to 
keep the stem and plant erect in the pot. Thin out 
weak and deformed bloom-buds. 

stove and orchid-eouse. 
The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed 
to settle down gently to their annual repose by withhold- 
ing water at the root, by diminishing the amount of 
atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more liberal 
ventilation than in the growing season. The more ever- 



\ 



112 



KOTEMBEE— SECOND WESE. 



green kinds — such, as some of the Aerides, Dendrobiums. 
Saccolabiums, Pandas, &c, to be favoured with the 
warmest situation. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Asparagus. — Where it is wanted early, preparations 
should now be made for forcing it. Any old Cucumber 
or Melon-bed that still retains a gentle heat may be used 
for the purpose. The plants to be placed as closely as 
possible, and covered with three or four inches of an}* 
light soil. The application of linings will supply any 
deficiency of heat that may be caused by severe weathei-. 
When the heads come up, to be supplied with an abund- 
ance of light and air. 

Cherries. — Look over the plants in pots, and if they 
require shifting into larger pots it may be done at once. 
The pots to be plunged in coal ashes, or any other loose 
material, to protect the roots from frost, and where they 
will commence rooting immediately. 

Figs. — If the summer and autumn attention has been 
given to them, as advised, very little, if any, winter 
pruning will now be required ; but if such is neccessary 
it may be done as soon as the leaves fade. The trees to 
be carefully washed clean all over with soap and water, 
and then painted over with a mixture composed of one 
ounce of soft soap and one ounce of sulphur to a quart of 
water. Trees in pots to be shifted, or top-dressed, as 
may be necessary. Shifting is only recommended when 
it is desirable to increase the size of the trees. To be 
afterwards placed in a shed with the pots plunged in leaves. 

Pines. — The plants on which the fruit has recently 
appeared to be encouraged with heat and moderate 
moisture; but those that are likely to ••'show" for the 
next two months to be supplied with a temperature to 
keep them progressing slowly that they may be just 
beginning to swell their fruit when the days and sun are 
lengthening and strengthening. The state of temperature 
of the beds recently renewed with tan to be examined 
frequently, as they sometimes become suddenly too hot. 
jNow, when Oak and other tree leaves can be collected, it 
is advisable to use half leaves and half dung for lining 
the pits heated by fermenting materials ; the leaves con- 



NOVEMBER— SECOND AND THIBD WEEK. 113 



tribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give 
no water to the succession plants during dull weather 
except to such plants as are near the flues and pipes, and 
are apt to get over-dry in consequence. 

Sea-kale. — If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, 
a small hotbed should be made in some convenient place ; 
the roots to be taken up and placed upon it, covered with, 
a little light soil, and protected by boards or any other 
contrivance most convenient and suitable to exclude light 
and the inclemency of the weather. 

Rhubarb.— The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where 
a Mushroom-house is at work is the best place for both. 

Vines. — All fading leaves to be removed from the 
Vines on which fruit is hanging, and the house to be kept 
dry, light, and airy, and free from anything likely to 
create mould or damp. 



THIRD WEEK. 

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Careful attention should now be given to the picking 
off mouldy and dead leaves, decaying flower-stems, &c, 
as they spread contagion wherever they touch. Drip to 
be prevented, and atmospheric humidity to be disposed 
of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free ad- 
mission of air. 

Azaleas (Chinese). — Introduce a few into heat for 
early bloom. The A. Indica alba and Pkcenicea are best 
to begin with ; to be succeeded by Smith's coccinea, and 
after it any of the other varieties. As decorations for the 
conservatory or drawing-room they are invaluable where 
they continue for six weeks or two months in perfect 
beauty. 

Camellias. — Water, when necessary, to be given in a 
slightly tepid state, and plenty of air, that the buds may 
be allowed to swell full and prominent by a slow but sure 
process. If bloom is required early, to be forwarded by 
introducing them into a situation where heat is applied. 

I 



114 



NOVEMBEE — THIBD WEEK. 



STOVE AND OBCHID-HOTJSE. 

Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous 
Orchids, and such as are sinking into a state of repose. 
Any late specimens, or importations, making late growths 
to be favoured with the best light situations in the 
house and a little water, to keep up the vitality suffi- 
cient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them 
safely through the dull days of winter. Look over all 
growing plants, and see that they do not suffer for want 
of water. Look to every Orchid, even the smallest grow- 
ing on blocks or in baskets, they all require attention. 
Eepot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable 
day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free 
admission of that agent most indispensable for their 
health. The whole to be kept neat, and free from insects ; 
and the plants on stages, tables, or suspended from blocks, 
baskets, &c, to be arranged in a manner the most suit- 
able for a picturesque and pleasing effect. 

EOECING-HOUSES. 

Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give 
a thorough cleansing to the houses by limewashing and 
dressing the wood of Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c, 
as . frequently directed. 

Beans (Dwarf Kidney). — Sow in six-inch pots ; when 
crocked to be filled within three inches of the rim with a 
compost consisting of old Cucumber or Melon mould, 
rotten dung and leaf mould in about equal proportions. 
To be placed in any convenient part of the forcing-house 
for a few days until the soil is warm. The Beans are then 
sown about ten or twelve in each pot, and pressed by the 
finger about an inch below the soil. In a week they 
will be up ; to be then thinned out, according to the 
strength of the plants, to six or eight in each, and to 
receive a gentle watering. When the two first leaves 
are fully developed the plants to be earthed up as high 
as the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and watered 
at the roots, taking especial care that they do not become 
too wet, or they will damp off. When they have made 
two joints to be stopped, to cause them to produce laterals 
and bearing branches. The plants to be placed as close 



NOVEMBER — THIBD AND FOUETH WEEK. 115 

to the glass as possible. The Chinese Dwarf and Fulmer 
are good sorts for forcing. 

Figs. — A temperature of abont 40° will suit them at 
present ; if allowed to get lower they are very apt to 
suffer. Trees in pots to be removed to any house where 
that degree of temperature is kept up. 

Peaches. — Where the roots are inside, and have been 
kept dry, an application of weak, clear liquid manure, 
at the temperature of summer heat (76°), will act as a 
stimulant to the roots, whose services are required before 
much excitement takes place at top. 

Pines.— Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is 
necessary to be very cautious in regulating the bottom 
and surface temperatures, more especially in the succes- 
sion-houses or pits : a bottom heat of about 70°, with a 
steady top temperature of about 60° during the day, and 
about 55° during the night, will keep the plants in a 
comparatively comfortable state of rest, neither allowing 
the temperature to decline so low as to reduce their 
vitality to such a degree as to endanger their restoration 
to vigour in proper season, nor to rise so high as to excite 
them into a growth that would be immature for want of 
solar light and heat. A moderate application of water 
will also be necessary. 

"Vines. — When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines 
without loss of time, that the wounds may have sufficient 
time to get perfectly healed before they are excited into 
growth. If delayed until early spring, bleeding will be 
sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for forcing should 
either be placed within the protection of the house appro- 
priated to them, or secured from the effects of severe 
weather. 



FOUETH WEEK, 

geeenhouse and conservatory. 
, The great object should now be to keep them mo- 
derately dry ; water, when necessary, to be given in the 
forenoon. Gentle fires to be applied in the daytime, 
with a sufficiency of air to allow the vapour to pass off. 



116 



S OVEMBEE. — FOURTH WEEK. 



All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c, to be carefully 
picked off. All weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or 
anything else that would tend to cause dampness, mildew, 
or decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off the 
tops of any of the half-hardy plants that are growing 
too rapidly. 

Climbers. — To be closely tied, that they may interfere 
as little as possible with the admission of light. 

Forcing Pit. — The various plants described in former 
Calendars, and recommended to be forwarded here for 
furnishing the drawing-room, conservatory, or mixed 
greenhouse, will require careful and skilful attention. 
Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on 
suitable occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially 
in the daytime, with air at every favourable opportunity. 
The pit to be shut up early, and the heat to be husbanded 
by external coverings in preference to night heat. 
Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or frequent and 
moderate fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to 
destroy green fly. The water to be always tepid when 
applied to the roots or branches when they require it. 

New Holland Plants. — As they are very apt to suffer 
when exposed to cold draughts of air, and as they are 
generally wintered in the same house with the more 
hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should occupy a 
part of the house where air can be admitted, when neces- 
sary, from the top lights only. 

Orange Trees. — Advantage to be taken of unfavour- 
able weather for out-door work, to clean the foliage of 
Orange trees and Camellias. It is as essential to the 
health of such things that the foliage be kept clean, and, 
therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions, as that 
their roots be kept in a healthy » activ© state. 

forcing-houses. 
Asparagus. — Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if 
they can be procured, of size or substance suflicient only 
to cause a gentle heat, The roots may be taken up from 
the open ground, and planted at once in the bed. Mice 
and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits, or frames, 
may be made available for the purpose of forcing 
Asparagus. 



HOTBMBEB — FOUETH WEEK. 



117 



Cherries. — To be treated as advised for Peache3. 

CucumseeS. — If the plants are strong, and you have 
a full command of bottom and atmospheric heat, you 
may calculate, with a little attention, upon ultimate 
success. Air to be admitted when it is safe to do so, to 
get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is indispen- 
sable, and steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for 
that object in winter. The early nursing-box for young 
plants should be well supplied with linings, the glass 
washed clean and kept in good repair. 

Musheoom8. — Continue to prepare succession -beds as 
formerly directed. The beds that have been in bearing 
some time, if the surface is dry, to be watered with clear, 
weak liquid manure, a few degrees warmer than the 
temperature of the house. 

Peaches. — The early house should now be set in order, 
by being thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees 
pruned, dressed, and tied. Air to be given during the 
day, and the house to be shut up at night for a fortnight 
or three weeks, preparatory to the commencement of 
forcing. 

Pines. — The principal objects of attention during this 
dull season should comprise a moderate declension of 
heat and moisture, and a moderate supply of air at all 
times when it can be admitted with safety. When heat 
is supplied by fermenting materials the linings will 
require some sort of covering — as straw, fern, boards, or 
shutters — to protect them from cold winds, frosts, or 
rains ; only a gentle bottom heat is now required at this, 
that should be, their season of rest, as a dry and moderately 
warm atmosphere is nearly all they will require. If the 
young plants are growing in pits heated solely by dung- 
linings, be careful to exclude the steam from the dung, 
as excess of damp will rot the hearts of the plants. 

Vines. — If early Grapes are required, it is advisable 
to adopt the old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot 
dung inside the house, to produce an atmosphere that is 
most congenial for softening the wood, and for "breaking" 
the buds. The roots, if outside, to be covered with a 
good depth of litter, to produce an increase of beat by 
fermentation, and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. 
All Vines casting their leaves to be pruned immediately. 



118 



3DECEMBES—SIBST WEEK. 



DECEMBER. 

FIEST WEEK. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Every endeavour should now be made to keep these 
houses as gay as possible. Fire-heat to be applied occa- 
sionally during dull, dark, or rainy weather, taking care 
not to raise the temperature too high — say greenhouse 
from 50° to 55° by day and from 40° to 45° by night ; 
conservatory 60° by day and 50° by night. Chrysanthe- 
mums to be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be 
succeeded by early Camellias. The Euphorbia jacquini- 
flora is well worthy of attention now ; it requires but a 
very moderate allowance of water at this season, as 
the least saturation or interference with the root action 
will cause the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in 
flower. Poinsettia pulcherrima is also worthy of parti- 
cular attention as a noble ornamental flower at thi3 
season. The old Plumbago Gapensis and rosea still 
retain their places amongst our best plants at this 
season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, 
give, with the other flowers, a variety of colours to beau- 
tify the whole. Gesnera zebrina should not be forgotten ; 
the elegant markings of the leaves contribute to enhance 
the beauty of this beautiful winter flower. 

Heaths. — As lire-heat is generally injurious to this 
tribe of plants it is advisable to be very cautious in its 
application. They can bear a good deal of cold and some 
degrees of frost without sustaining any very serious 
injury ; but they cannot bear the drying influence of 
fire-heat without serious damage to their foliage, and 
which is very frequently death to the plants. They will 
require but very little water, especially the large speci- 
mens, which should be very particularly examined as to 
their state of dryness or otherwise, as a guide to the 



DECEMBER — FIRST WEEK. 



119 



application or withholding of water. An abundance of 
air to be given on fine days, to keep the plants from 
growing. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed 
here. The temperature to be kept rather low than other- 
wise, for fear of exciting premature growth. A small 
portion of air to be admitted on fine days, to purify the 
atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface of the soil 
in the pots free from weeds, as also from moss and lichen ; 
but when doing so do not loosen the soil so as to injure 
the roots near the surface. Keep every plant free from 
dead leaves, and all climbing plants neatly tied up. 
The Achimenes, Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gloxinias, 
and the various bulbs will now be approaching a state of 
repose, and therefore will require but little or no water. 
To prevent confusion or mistakes it is advisable to place 
them on a shelf, or some other part of the house, by 
themselves. Although dormant, .or nearly so, they re- 
quire a stove temperature to keep them safe and sound. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Asparagus and Sea-kale. — Make up beds as wanted. 

Mushrooms. — Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, 
and the temperature steadily at or near 60°. A fresh 
bed to be made and spawned every three or four weeks, 
to produce successional crops. 

Pines. — The fruit now swelling will require the tempe- 
rature and moisture of the house or pit to be kept up. 
Those intended for the main crop to be kept in a regular 
state, allowing them air at every favourable opportunity, 
with a day temperature from 70° to 75° and from 55° to 
60° at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful attention. 
Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature, ad- 
mitting a little fresh air at favourable opportunities, to 
prevent them from being injured by damp. When the 
heat is kept up by dung linings, constant watching will 
be necessary to prevent any fluctuation of temperature, 
having materials at hand to assist in case of frost. 

Vines. — Where forcing has commenced attend to the 
breaking of the Vines by the application of fermenting 



120 DECEMBER— EIBST AND SECOND WEEK. 

manure inside the house, as advised last week, which will 
be found the best means of keeping the atmosphere 
regularly moist ; but if such cannot be used, the wood 
should be syringed frequently, and evaporating-pans, or 
troughs, kept full of water. The roots, if outside, to be 
protected, and afforded a steady, gentle warmth until the 
buds are fairly swelled. As it is advisable to proceed 
very slowly with early Vines, the temperature to range 
from 55 3 to 60° by day and from 45° to 50° by night, and 
even rather under thasi over the above scale. Late Grapes 
will require great care to preserve them from damp. Look 
over them frequently, and dry the house by fire during 
the day. 



SECOND WEEK. 

GBEENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

Eveby dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and fiowerstalk, 
to be removed as soon as they are seen. Mildew to be 
banished by an application of flowers of sulphur, and 
afterwards to be prevented from making its appearance 
by a free ventilation on clear, mild mornings., using a 
little fire heat at the same time. Great caution is no^r 
necessary in giving water to the plants, more especially 
to such as have not well matured" their growth, and are 
in a rather soft state. It is also advisable to look over 
them every morning, that the flagging of a leaf may be 
noticed, and the necessary supply of water be given. 
All pots to be turned around occasionally to keep the 
plants uniform. 

Calceolabias. — Eemove all decayed leaves, and be 
careful to give no more water than is really required. 
Keep down green fly. 

Cinebabias. — No more fire heat to be given than is 
necessary to keep out frost. The plants intended for 
large specimens to receive their final shift; air to be 
given on all occasions in favourable weather. Eveiy one 
that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green fly to be 
kept down by fumigating. The most forward to have 
the lightest place in the house, close to the glass, with 



DECEMBER — SECOND WEEK. 



121 



sufficient space for the air to circulate freely around the 
foliage of each. 

Pelargoniums. — To be kept rather cool and dry; fire 
heat to be avoided, except when necessary to prevent the 
temperature falling below 40°, or to dispel damp. Every 
plant intended for early bloom to be arranged in the 
best form. The system of arranging a piece of twisted 
bass under the rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened 
to secure the shoots and the better formation of the plant, 
obviates the too-extensive use of sticks, a superfluity of 
which is at all times objectionable. 

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 

Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in 
the application of water are more especially required, as 
there is not a single feature in the cultivation of plants 
during the winter in which the amateur is more likely to 
err, and by reason of which a greater amount of injury 
is sustained, than in the application of water either in its 
fluid or vaporous state. If applied to the soil in super- 
abundance, the roots, being inactive, are certain to sustain 
some degree of injury ; and if it is applied in excess to 
the atmosphere in the form of vapour, the exhalations 
from the leaves of the plants will be checked in con- 
sequence of the density of the medium that surrounds 
them when they will be sure to suffer. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Cucumbers. — Sow some good variety for planting out 
next month. A one-light frame on a well-worked bed of 
dung and leaves is most suitable for the purpose, as pro- 
ducing an atmosphere moist and congenial for their 
healthy vegetation and growth. 

Peaches. — Syringe the trees that are just started and 
swelling the buds, and keep every plant clean and neat. 

Pines. — When the application of fire heat is necessarV 
during severe weather, it is advisable to pay particular 
attention to those that have done blooming and swelling 
off in various stages, that they may not receive a check 
from being over-dry at the roots. 

Vines. — Leaves, or dung, or both mixed together, when 
used to produce fermentation, and a sweet vaporous at- 



122 DECEMBER — SECOND AND THIRD WEEK. 



mosphere to "break" the early Vines, should be turned 
and watered at least once a-week. Keep the wood 
generally moist, and proceed in forcing with, caution as 
before advised. As the most essential point in early 
forcing is to secure a healthy and vigorous root action, it 
is advisable, if the Vines are planted inside, to excite the 
roots by an occasional application of water at a tempera- 
ture from 85° to 90°. If the Vines are planted outside, a 
steady heat of about 60° should be maintained by the 
fermenting matter placed on the border to be frequently 
turned over, and protected with dry litter from the frost 
or other unfavourable weather. Houses intended to 
commence forcing the early part of next month, to 
have some fermenting materials placed on the borders 
to excite the roots a little before the Vines are started, 
which will be of some assistance to make the buds push 
strongly and without much loss of time. To induce the 
buds to break regularly throughout the whole length of 
the Vine, it is frequently necessary to bend the rod so as 
to incline the most forward buds to the lowest level, and 
to elevate the most backward. 



THIED WEEK. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 

As many of the hard-wooded plants are impatient of 
fire heat and a confined atmosphere, it is advisable to 
use no more artificial heat than is absolutely necessary. 
The drying effects of fire heat must be counteracted by 
a supply of moisture; the moisture becomes condensed 
on the glass and falls in drips, that are apt to spoil the 
beauty of the flowers, and to injure the foliage of the 
plants. The best corrective for such unfavourable results 
is to be found in keeping the temperature as low as may 
be consistent with the safety of the plants, and in with- 
holding moisture as much as possible whenever the glass 
is affected by frost. See that the young stock of Helio- 
tropes, Scarlet Geraniums, Persian Cyclamens, and other 
such flowers, that are grown especially for winter, are 



DECEMBER — THIRD WEEK. 



123 



accommodated with a light, airy situation, and receive 
regular attention as regards watering. Avoid watering 
the Pelargoniums until they are thoroughly dry, and 
ieep down insects. 

STOVE AND OECHID-EOUSE. 

The plants in flie stove should he kept as quiet as 
possible, and only just sufficient water given to keep them 
from flagging, to be accompanied with a moderately 
low temperature ; about 60° by day, and 50° by night, 
the object being to prevent them from growing before 
the spring of the year. Admit ah* when it can be done 
safely, but do not expose the plants to cold, frosty winds 
at any time. As our collections of Orchids are from 
countries with different seasons of growth, and various 
kinds of temperature and climate, it is difficult to cul- 
tivate in one house a miscellaneous collection of them so 
satisfactorily as where there are two divisions, the one 
commanding a higher temperature, with more moisture, 
than the other. Where there is no such division, ad- 
vantage may be taken of a forcing-pit, or other such 
house, to which any of them now in a growing state may 
be removed, and thus their growth may be promoted 
without injury to the general collection. For the general 
collection a drier atmosphere and lower temperature are 
now desirable, as no plants are more benefited by a season 
of rest than Orchids. 

rORCIXG-HOUSES, 

All "Vines, Peaches, and Figs in Pots, or Tubs, to be 
secured from frost and wet. A fermenting body in a forcing 
vinery is an excellent plunging medium for such of these 
as are wanted very early. JAeep up a succession of As- 
paragus, French Beans, Rhubarb, Sea-kale, &c, accord- 
ing to the demand. 

Cucumbers. — Thin out the fruit occasionally, more 
especially if too many appear at one time. If any plants 
have been bearing some time, and now appear nearly 
exhausted, they may be rallied into vigour again by a 
judicious pruning and thinning, and by the application 
of a top dressing of leaf mould or other such rich, light 
soil, and of liquid manure occasionally 



124 



DECEMBER — THIRD WEEK. 



Peaches. — A moist heat, arising from dung or leaves, 
is as beneficial to Peach trees as to Vines before they 
break, but as it can but rarely be made use of, in con- 
sequence of the difference in the structure of the interior, 
moisture must be supplied by other means, such as 
syringing and sprinkling the flues, or pipes, when warm. 
A few trees, in pots, are useful for early forcing, as they 
can be easily plunged in a pit or any other convenient 
place where a mild regular bottom heat can be supplied. 
The trees for this purpose must have been grown and 
established for some time in pots. 

Pines.— A regular heat, both bottom and atmospheric, 
to be kept up to carry the general stock of fruiting plants 
safely through the winter. A high and close tempera- 
ture to be avoided in the management of the succession 
plants. 

Strawberries. — If ripe fruit is wanted very early, some 
of the strongest plants, if treated as advised, should now 
be selected, and placed in a pit where they can get a 
gentle bottom heat, or on the back or front shelf of a 
vinery or Peach-house, just started for forcing, to be 
placed near the glass with a free admission of air on fine 
days. 

Vines. — It is advisable, when beginning to force, to com- 
mence with a low temperature — say. 55° by day and 50° 
by night, to be increased 5° more until they break, when 
it may be raised to 60° at night, and 65° in the day, or 
thereabouts, allowing a rise of a few degrees by sun heat. 
The Vines to be syringed evening and morning until they 
break, and the walls and floor kept damp. If the stems 
of the Vines are near the flues, or pipes, wrap moss over 
that part, and keep it constantly moist. The Vines in 
the late houses to be pruned, the loose bark to be re- 
moved, and the scale, if visible, to be banished by an 
application of the Grishurst Compound, or by the more 
ancient composition of sulphur, soft soap, and tobacco 
water. Where the fruit is ripe, a little fire heat will be 
necessary in frosty weather to prevent the vapour. that 
adheres to the glass on the inside being frozen, for 
the moisture on thawing is apt to drop upon the bunches 
causing injury to the bloom, and decay to the berries. 



DECEMEER — FOURTH WEEK. 



125 



FOURTH WEEK. 

GBEENHOUSE AND CONSEBVATOBY. 

Continue to keep the supply of heat and moisture at 
the lowest degree compatible with the safety of the 
plants from frosts. In damp, foggy weather, a gentle 
fire to be applied occasionally during the day to expel 
moist, stagnant air. During severe winterly weather 
it is advisable to be cautious in the application of 
heat, more especially at night. From 45° by night to 
50° by day will be sufficient for the conservatory, and 40° 
for the mixed greenhouse. To give a pleasing variety to 
the appearance of these houses it is advisable to re- 
arrange the plants occasionally ; those going out of flower 
to be removed, and a fresh supply introduced from the 
forcing-pit. All plants in these and other departments 
to be regularly looked over, removing the dead leaves 
and tying in straggling branches. The surface soil to be 
stirred a little, and some fresh added. As all compost- 
heaps are benefited by exposure to frosts, it is advisable 
to turn over the caked or frozen surface every morning, 
until the whole is turned over and penetrated by the 
frost, by which grubs and all such kinds of vermin are 
destroyed, and the soil considerably ameliorated. 

Calceolarias (Herbaceous). — To be shifted into larger 
pot3 if they require them, to be kept near the glass, to be 
watered moderately through a fine rose, and on no 
account to be allowed to get thoroughly dry. To be 
careful when removing decayed leaves, not to pull or to 
cut them off too close to the stem, by which the flower- 
shoots would be very likely to get injured. 

Camellias. — Great care is necessary that they may not 
be exposed to great alternations of temperature, which 
are sure to cause them to drop their flower-buds. The 
great reason why flower-buds very often fall off without 
properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden changes 
in the temperature to which they are exposed. For in- 
stance : when the buds are nearly ready to expand, a 
sudden heat causes them to push too rapidly ; and, on the 
contrary, a decrease of warmth at the time checks their 
growth, and in other cases causes them to fall. The heat 



DECEMBER — EOURTH WEEK. 



required to expand the blossom-buds is about 60° by day, 
and 50° by night. If this be attended to, the plants will 
continue in flower for a great length of time, as the 
plants in that heat are not excited to grow. A little 
weak manure water to be given occasionally to the 
blooming plants. 

Chrysanthemums. — When they begin to fade, to be 
removed to the north side of a wall or fence, the pots to 
be plunged in old tan, leaves, or sawdust, to protect them 
from the severity of winter. 

Cytisuses. — Place them and other such early -flowering 
plants in the coldest part of the house, where they may 
receive plenty of air at all favourable opportunities. 

Orange Trees. — These, or other such plants that have 
not been recently potted, to be surfaced by removing a 
little of the top soil and supplying its place with fresh. 
Attention to be paid to keeping the leaves clean and 
healthy. 

STOVE AND OR CHID -HOUSE. 

As it would be improper to attempt to maintain the 
same degree of heat in any structure, when the external 
temperature is below the freezing-point as may be per- 
mitted if it were 10° or 15° above freezing, we would 
advise from 50° by night to 60° by day, for the stove and 
Orchid-house. As many plants, especially Orchids, suffer 
from drip at this season, a careful look-out should be 
kept, and either the cause remedied or the plants removed. 
The decoration of the hothouse would now depend in a 
great measure upon Begonias, Euphorbias, Luculias, &c. 
Such plants should be carefully tied up and placed in 
the most conspicuous situations, or some of them may be 
removed to the conservatory so as to prolong their season 
of blooming. 

Allamandas. — Continue the temperature and treat- 
ment as lately advised. To be potted, as also Sfepka* 
notis, &c, and trained preparatory to starting them into 
growth, about the beginning of the new year. 

Forcing-pit. — Introduce such plants as are generally 
used for forcing, especially the sweet-scented sorts, Lily 
ef the Valley, Sweet Briar, Lilacs, some of the Tea, 
Bourbon, or Hybrid Perpetual Boses, and bulbous plants. 

Ixoras. — To~be elevated near the glass to set their 



DECEMEER — FOURTH WEEK. 127 

bloom, and to have plenty of air at favourable oppor« 
tunities. 

FORCING-HOUSES. 

Cucumbers.— No diminution of heat to be allowed 
after the plants are ridged out and in action. 

Peaches. — It is becoming very much the fashion to 
have Peach and some other sorts of fruit trees which are 
wanted for early forcing in pots, and the plan is so far 
good, that it affords the advantage of being able to give 
the roots a mild, regular bottom heat, which is of the 
greatest importance in early forcing. Those who have 
good established trees, in pots, may now start them in a 
moderate heat. Air to be given liberally in favourable 
weather, and the syringe to be used freely over them 
morning and evening. The surface soil to be stirred up 
and kept open, and a supply of manure water to be given 
previous to starting them. The trees in the late houses to 
receive whatever pruning is necessary, and to be cleansed 
of every particle of scale, and afterwards washed with a 
composition of soft soap and sulphur. All bast ties and 
insect-haunts to be carefully removed. 

Pines- — During the continuance of severe weather, 
dry fern, straw, &c, will be necessary, in addition 
to mats; such coverings will be of more service than 
maintaining strong fires to keep up the temperature. 
When a supply of fruit is required throughout the year, 
it is sometimes necessary, at this season, to subject some 
of the plants to a high temperature to start them into 
fruit. A few of such as are most likely to fruit soon, to 
be put into a pit, or house, by themselves, where a tem- 
perature of from 60° to 65° by night, and from 70° to 75° 
by day, with about 80° of bottom heat, will be the most 
certain treatment for starting them into fruit. The other 
plants can then be supplied with a moderate temperature 
until the beginning of February ; by such treatment a 
succession of fruit will be prolonged. Do not suffer the 
linings of dung-beds to decline, keep up, if possible, a 
temperature of 50° at night, and 60° by day, with a little 
air at every favourable opportunity. 

Potatoes. — Plant some sound, whole sets,, singly, in 
three-and-a-half-inch pots, to be placed at the back of a 
Pine-pit, or in any other place where there is some heat, 



128 



DECEMBER — FOURTH WEEK. 



they will, in due time, be useful for planting out in the 
exhausted Asparagus-frames or pits. 

Haspberbies. — When a few early dishes would be 
considered a treat, if some canes are taken up and planted 
in any vacant spot in the Peach-house, they will be found 
to bear fruit abundantly with common care. It is a 
more certain method of obtaining fruit than by potting 
them. 

Vines. — When started and until the buds are fairly 
broken, endeavour to keep the points of the shoots nearly 
on a level with the lowest part of the Vine, and if that 
should not be found sufficient to induce the buds to start 
regularly throughout the whole length of the Vine, the 
rod should be bent so as to bring the most forward buds 
to the lowest level, and elevating those that are backward. 
A moist atmosphere to be kept up by sprinkling the floor 
and paths, and by syringing the Vines lightly every 
morning and evening until the leaves begin to appear, 
when the supply of moisture will not be so much required. 
Introduce a lot in pots to some house, pit, or frame pre- 
pared with leaves or manure, if not done as advised last 
week. At first, Vines in pots are most useful for early 
work, as they, in many places, save the established Vines 
in houses, from the hazardous operation of early excite- 
ment. Increase the temperature slightly when the buds are 
beginning to swell, or are starting a little. The ferment- 
ing material in the house to be stirred up occasionally. 
This fermenting material should, if possible, consist of a 
large proportion of leaves mixed with the dung, to prevent 
the steam from the latter discolouring the rafters and 
sashes ; and if the vapour is likely to be too strong, a 
thin covering of sawdust or old tan will prevent any 
injurious effects. If the roots are outside the house, and 
had been covered before the commencement of frost, as 
advised, some more dung and leaves should be added to 
keep up a genial heat in the border, the good effects of 
which will be soon evident in the progress of the Vines 
inside. When the Grapes are all cut in the late houses, 
the Vines to be pruned immediately, and the cuts to be 
covered with white lead. 



Printed at the Horticultural Press, Winchester. 



